Good eating: "Towards the end of December 1870, we had the greatest difficulty making up menus that were fairly 'suitable,'" declared the famous chef, Thomas Genin (he died in 1887). "There was scarcely anyting to be had but horse. Beef and veal had long since disappeared. Mutton had been replaced by dog which was sold by chicken dealers, and rats were substituted for young rabbits. Cat was considered a rare tidbit. The rat was repulsive to the touch but its flesh of tremendous quality: delicate by not too insipid. Well seasoned, it is perfect,. "I have served grilled rats a 'pigeons a la crap