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Graham M

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Everything posted by Graham M

  1. Your local rfd can order them now through Edgar Bros. You look on Boyds website for the stock of your choice and note the product code. Give the code to your rfd and he can order from Edgars, takes approx six weeks to come, my mate has just done this. Mmmm now that's interesting, but I wonder what their mark-up is. G
  2. In fairness I have also heard that the idea was to wound rather than kill as this took up valuable resources and men. But I do not have access to the secret military thinking behind this, so I'll leave others to theorise. My grandkids are convinced that the illuminate rule the world and that governments do as they are told ..............go figure. G
  3. I know that you can buy the trigger kits for @ £14 to make that awful CZ trigger work a bit better, but has anyone upgraded to one of these - https://www.diproductsinc.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=156624&TERM=452 @ half the price of a Rifle Basix https://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/rifle-basix-cz-452-adjustable-after-market-trigger-silver-cz452-891678000313.do Or perhaps the cream of the three- http://www.timneytriggers.com/shop/timney-cz-452-replacement-trigger.aspx G
  4. When the 5.56 Nato was first designed it used a 62grn bullet and a 1-14 twist, which made it very unstable. The wounds that this caused were horrendous as the bullet could enter in the chest and exit out the lower back or shoulder. This made it almost too inhumane for battlefield use and the twist was increased to 1-12 and eventually down to 1-7 in order to really stabilise the bullet and to make it more accurate. The horrific wounding was reduced but the round was still effective when the target was hit cleanly. The primary factor in using 5.56 against 7.62 was that the soldier could carry t
  5. sportsman gun centre can get them cheaper than that Like I said
  6. sportsman gun centre can get them cheaper than that Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeessssss..............if you want a shite looking 10/22 stock that is G
  7. I bought a Boyds stock for my .308 and they were $97 then. Add $40 shipping and then bend over for HMCE for another £25 and it totalled @ £126. The same stock bought from a dealer in this country is @ £325. Unfortunately they have banged up their prices to @$129 which means we are now screwed because they won't export anything over $100 http://www.boydsgunstocks.com/FindAStock?Make=2D&Model=231&Action=11&Shape=18 G
  8. It must be a "ME" thing because the CZ .243 at the club was a hell of a weight. My .17 is also heavy and with a heavy bit of wood. So overall a heavy rifle and a little unbalanced although I blame that on the barrel which makes it front heavy. The LUX with the hogs back comb in .22rf is nice and light though, but that 550 was like picking up a match rifle which was why I went for the Tikka T3 Hunter. G
  9. CZ 527 American (Hornet) 2.7kg. I'm not suggesting CZ are Lite, but I struggle to see that as bloody heavy! Yes I know that the .17Hmr is heavy due to that solid lump of steel with a tiny hole up the middle but my American has a very heavy stock as well. And the lad at the club has a CZ550 in .243 and that weighs a ton. I don't buy a gun intentionally by weight, but if I pick up a rifle that feels too heavy I tend to pass on it. But then again I am a decrepit old sod these days, as you can see by the lovely little bitch that replaced my Lab. G
  10. On some yes but I was thinking more my S/S as mine has leaf springs. .............but you are correct. I had to iron out a small bulge in a rimfire a couple of years back where the owner had dry-fired it so often the tip of the firing pin (which was too long) had peened a small bulge at the top of the breech and the case was getting stuck after firing. So yes it isn't wise to dry-fire a rimfire. G
  11. The trouble with a CZ is that they are bloody heavy (well heavy for me) My .17Hmr is heavier than my .308 with a laminated stock. I have an old BSA .22Hornet that was made in the 50s and the bore is now like crazy paving. The only reason I keep it is because it's a beautiful old girl and I can't bear the get rid if her. I take her out a couple of times a year maybe and just shoot a few rounds through her, and if she groups into 3 inches at 100yds....................I'm happy. Wouldn't dream of taking a fox at that range but if one came within 50yds..................................... G
  12. Always oil before putting away and then wipe off before using (especially fullbore) but I'm sure it's something to do with the leather being hygroscopic and absorbing moisture from the air. Or maybe it's something used in the tanning. I have ordered one of those holster thingys anyway and will see how good it works. G
  13. Just read this and I'm amazed at how upset people get over these issues. I had a really accurate .223 Remington..............which I sold because I thought I needed a .243 because I was shooting over bigger fields. Turns out I still shoot foxes at @ the same distance only now it costs twice as much to reload. I have a .308 for deer so the .243 sees little use in that dep't. So unless you need a rifle that will double up as a deer rifle, stick with a .223. Had a run-in some years ago with an armchair warrior who was adamant that a 22-250 was "Too much gun for foxes". Turned out he was a target
  14. Was looking at buying a couple or six holsters for my bolt-actions, as I store them in a safe all together and thought it may keep them from knocking against each other. Then I took out one of my knives that had been stored for a while in a leather sheath and noticed how the leather sent the brass green where it came into contact over longer periods. So if leather can send brass green it must be able to send steel rusty........................yes So I have been looking at one of these and wondered if anyone else had any thoughts on them. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tourbon-Hunting-Sho
  15. And if you fire them using snap-caps you then leave the ejector springs under tension..................................... G
  16. I put my coterminous renewal in last May ready for when it ran out on 27th July. Got it back at the beginning of October. When I rang them up they just said "Oh don't worry about it, we'll get it back to you as soon as we catch up." G
  17. Be careful what ammo you use in the .223. The .223 is loaded to a lower pressure and velocities compared to 5.56mm. Due to its lower pressure, you can safely fire .223 Rem. ammunition in a 5.56mm chambered gun; however, the same cannot be said in reverse. The 5.56x45mm ammo creates a higher pressure
  18. http://riflemags.co.uk/tikka-magazines/
  19. You want an epoxy paint; it's half price here at the moment https://www.resincoat.co.uk/en/66-high-build-epoxy-floor-paint Just remember that you will need to prime the concrete first and this is where the cost lies as the primer is 3x more expensive then the top coat. But as the top coat is on offer you are saving some money G
  20. I have never bought anything other than a puppy so couldn't tell you other that scanning the chip. And if it isn't chipped I wouldn't buy it anyway. One of the dog owners local to me has a nice yellow Labrador which looks to be @ 6 years old but is actually 10 years old so you just cannot be sure. G
  21. For the sake of a 300 mile trip I would pack a flask and sandwiches. Park up on the services and stop in the van for an hour or so and then continue on your way. Funnily enough I would imagine that a van on a motorway services car park would be more of an attraction to scum than a car, and your guns would be out of sight in the boot. G 1000rds of .22rf and 500rds of 17Hmr ...............bloody hell ya must be going somewhere infested with vermin
  22. Just to play Devil's Advocate ..............How many of us would want to live next door to to a middle-aged man who had served 2 years in prison for drink-driving and road-rage................and who had now been granted a shotgun certificate because he had kept his head down for a few years. Just a thought G
  23. It's never going to be easy to fit a pad to a plastic stock because there really isn't a way to grind it down without marking the stock. I tend to fit rubber pads to my wooden stocks mainly to prevent slippage when shooting off sticks. Then it's just a case of re-finishing the stock with an oil finish.
  24. Had a look at the Brazilian 10/22 copy some years ago but was put off by the drop of that comb. It was a bloody lightweight though but not too brilliant with subs. G
  25. Read it again. I have the Sako Finnfire with the wooden stock; (5lb 12 oz / 2.6Kg) .................not the varmint. Cut 6 inches off the end and replace it with the old Parker Hale and it's more or less the same weight. G
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