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Everything posted by Graham M
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Just out of interest; can you moderate a rifle if you don't have a slot for a moderator for that particular gun??? A bit like taking a Parker-Hale moderator off an air rifle and using it on a rimfire without a slot for a rimfire moderator. G
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(Pops head over parapet) I have a SAK on mine and it's quite good. and if it wears out in a couple of years then it isn't too expensive to replace.
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Sorry to sound like a party-pooper but I an never comfortable with someone who has been in prison for assault and BOTP, being allowed to own firearms. If he can't control himself whilst unarmed without resorting to violence then why would anyone feel happy enough to give him a gun. As I have said before........would anyone here want an ex-con who had been done for violence, moving in next door and owning a bloody shotgun. I know I wouldn't G
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I have had one of these for over 25 years now and they will hold a match rifle with sights on, or a scoped sporting rifle. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gun-Guard-Double-Gun-Rifle-Carrying-Case-Hard-plastic-/182116391158 Don't know how high the bidding may go but you may be able to find one on line elsewhere. Amazon are doing these similar cases but they aren't as good although they are cheaper. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plano-10586-Double-Scoped-Shotgun/dp/B001MYGM5A G
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I have heard many anecdotes of Hornet users having problems with bullets heavier than 40grns. So I simply assumed that when mine shot 45gns well with the 1-14 twist it was because the barrel was suited to them. The Lil'Gun certainly made the groups tighten up, and gave lower pressures, so I have never bothered to look for another powder. Even some of the reloading gurus in some of the shooting magazines have allured to the need to get the loads right in order to get top accuracy out of the Hornet, so I'm sure I'm not alone in this. I have also been told that some people with a Tikka .243 have
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Didn't dip them; as you can see the solution only comes in small bottles and the idea was to swab it on, wait overnight and then card off the rust. I then poured very hot, but not boiling, water over the barrels to soften the rust before wire-brushing them and then re-applying the solution with a fresh swab.. I have since discovered that a soak in Copper Sulphate prior to browning sometimes helps, but can't remember the solution off-hand. If you can get them done by a professional at a good price, and the gun is worth it, then that is the route to go if you want a really good job done. Do
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.22 Hornet can be difficult to get right and as such the best powder I have found was Lil'Gun. Made little difference in the BSA as it was shot out so it was impossible to make a definite valuation on accuracy. I did have an old Ruger .22 Hornet re-barrelled by Rifle Craft some years ago though. It was done really cheaply as well as they had a Ruger .22 WMR barrel in that had been taken off a rifle and replaced with what I think was a .17 Hornet. They simply re-chambered it for me as a .22 Hornet and even with the 1-14 twist it shot 45grn bullets extremely well. You do have to experiment w
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It's almost like witchcraft at times and if I were to do mine again I would make a damp box to hang the barrels in so that they could be left in a warm damp environment overnight. I made about 6 passes on mine and used a fine wire wheel to card off the rust, but couldn't seem to get it to go any browner. The secret I think is to rub the browning into the metal more vigorously until it etches a bit more. It was good to try though and gave me an insight into the process even though it wasn't quite as good as I had hoped for. G
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I tried it myself some years ago with some stuff I bought from Peter Dyson https://www.peterdyson.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?RANDOM=NETQUOTEVAR%3ARANDOM&PAGE=SEARCH&SO=1_3_4_0&SS=browning&TB=A&GB=A&SX=0&ACTION=Search I think the weather wasn't damp enough but it didn't turn out too bad G
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Un :hmm: Possibly, but I don't see that as a negative, more of a benefit. For "ME", that will very rarely occur, as I most commonly survey first, just the same I have the option to take 2 or 3 just in case! Hence why a Hornet has gone through my mind many times, and that mythical beast the 17WSM, but I've simply never had a job crop up where I saw it as the ideal, or frankly close. With the selection I have there just doesn't seem a need between WMR and .223...for me! That may seem odd to many but that is the reality, if I needed one I'd get one, its my business!
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Makes me smile when you see someone in the movies get hit in the chest by a "high powered rifle round". And then get up and run for cover. G
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And then you get to the point where you open up the gun cabinet..................and can't decide what to take out. G
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P8 COMPACT is the route, smaller and lighter than T8 or P8, fine up to and including .308! Trouble is it's another £220? to fork out when I don't need one as yet. Went out with the .308 today just to play at a new 200yd plate that we have set up on the shoot. It really does make all the differnce with a moderator as we can shoot without ear protection and have a little bit of banter. Jeeze, when you see a bloody gert ding in a 12mm plate at 200yds you appreciate the knock-down power of a 150grn .308 bullet. G
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I had a Wildcat on my .223 and although it was strippable it was also unbelievably heavy. I have had a T8 on my .243 for @ 10 years now and have the T8 Scout on my .308 and neither have been a problem. Perhaps it's because I squirt WD40 into them after use. G
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Just a thought, but how do you lads clean a T8 moderator? I normally squirt a bit of WD40 into the can when I have finished just to try and drive out any moisture. Apart from that I can only think of soaking the whole thing in diesel or something, although I'm sure that this would have a detrimental effect on the outside coating. G
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I've Been Inspired To Do My Tx Stock.
Graham M replied to Jonjon79's topic in Rifle Reviews, Technical Help and Tips
And now it's too nice to take out in case it get scratched ................................................... Seriously though that is a bloody nice bit of timber. I have been experimenting with Danish oil just lately and it really does seem to cure better than most other oils and leaves a deep finish. http://s7g3.scene7.com/is/image//ae235?src=ae235/54151_P&$prodImageMedium$ G -
You are right about that without a doubt. A few years ago I was invited to a small deer stalk in Warwickshire by a member of another forum. He had a beautiful little Labrador bitch in training as his deer dog who, although quite well trained, had a habit of growling at strangers. I talked to her and gave her a little fuss and she quite took to me................. so much, that during the stalk she stuck to me rather than her owner, much to his annoyance. I suppose you have to decide what you are looking for; a dog that does a job, and nothing else. Or a companion that comes shooting with you
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Well the holster arrived yesterday, and although a little bigger than expected works very well. It holds 4 bolts with ease and closes to protect them in storage without them banging together. And as it's made from nylon or something similar it doesn't appear to have any detrimental effects on the bolt steel. G
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??????????????? Translation please
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Bear Grylls used to just walk though the woods shouting "Yo Bear" But this seems to work better G
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What!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's innerestin'...................... innit And at least it isn't descending into a bar room fight like you see on some other forums...............................fori ????? G
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The amount of overlap is also what causes the "Creep" and if you stone the sears it will make them easier to slide but won't remove that creep unless you stone it right up to the point where they are just about to break. At least with the tube fitted to the trigger pin on the CZ it removes 90% of that creep and THEN you can polish the sears. The Winchester hammer is like my old revolvers but without the first "Safety" notch, and just needed stoning up to the point where creep was eliminated. I haven't bought a lighter spring for that rifle but I did buy a Wolf spring for my Marlin 39a an
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On most rifles I would agree, but the CZ is a funny bugger and has a built-in creep due to the gap that normally exists above the trigger pin. Very easy to fit the Brookes kit but just wondered if anyone had felt the desire to go one better.I remember the easiest fix for my Sako Finnfire was to take out the car suspension spring in front of the trigger blade and replace it with one from a ballpoint pen. Made an uncomfortably heavy trigger into a delight to use at @ 8oz. Now I know some may think this too light, but I am used to exceptionally light triggers so I am comfortable using it without
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On most rifles I would agree, but the CZ is a funny bugger and has a built-in creep due to the gap that normally exists above the trigger pin. Very easy to fit the Brookes kit but just wondered if anyone had felt the desire to go one better. I remember the easiest fix for my Sako Finnfire was to take out the car suspension spring in front of the trigger blade and replace it with one from a ballpoint pen. Made an uncomfortably heavy trigger into a delight to use at @ 8oz. Now I know some may think this too light, but I am used to exceptionally light triggers so I am comfortable using it witho
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Boyds stocks come as a "Drop-in" fit, so no fitting needed. G