talpa
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Everything posted by talpa
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We are the same here, just done a few golf ball and now orange side nests. I’m seeing them about chewing on wooden posts and doors but not getting calls. Just been doing a few 2nd quarter efk catch tray counts on big sites this week and hardly any wasp queens in trays. I am seeing and hearing as many Hornet queens about as wasps, I even have 2 separate nests starting on either slope of the gable of my house. Perhaps they are better at coping with the poor weather being bigger and usually a little later getting going? My other thought is due to the poor weather people just haven’t been spe
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Day said by others, I’ve had squirrels up to 4 (a family group) rats I’ve only ever had 2 on a couple of occasions when used in grain stores when everything has been cleared out and food source has gone and they are desperate for grub. Dig understand by rats on anything other than concrete is a problem. The biggest palaver is Despatch ing the catch, you need a LOT of patience as it’s difficult to bottle them up to get a shot on target.
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If you’ve got public spaces like Recs, village green, sports fields and worst of all carrying a spade!! cemeteries, you need to get there just before dawn or in dark. Use a trap that doesn’t show when set or fired - you’ve got Trapline, Putange and nomol to use. Cover the trap site with hill soil to look like a molehill and mark it with something natural - twigs, twisted grass, patted soil a few feet away either side from the trap. I’ve also made false set sites by digging a turf and placing it beside the hole so that they are drawn to interfere and find no trap.
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You say you are getting small nibbles on the dog treat, you may find that if you break up some dog treats and scatter them in the well with the trigger/baithook, maybe even on the floor around the trap and outside your bucket cover. Don’t use too much or too big pieces your gaining its confidence not trying to make it fat. Use too much loose bait and it will take it away to cache and will take longer to come back for the jackpot piece.
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It looks like he was trying to get around the trigger, so when the the dog went up and the jaws closed the closed with him at the edge of the jaws meaning the jaws closed at an angle rather than flat /parallel to each other. Because he is at one side the jaw corners are far apart but the opposing side the jaws are very close and the knuckles come together allowing the spring eyes to pass over the corner knuckle which then allows the jaws to slightly move apart so it doesn’t deliver the humane kill. you can avoid this to some extent by having the trigger wire spread as wide as possible wi
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You can hang the trap on the wires of the cubby if you cut across the width of the cubby in the middle and then curl the ends of the cut sections that run along the length of the cubby, if you can understand what I mean. I have also used the metal pallet strapping that they use on bricks/blocks and other heavy items to make clips
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Yes i cover all CF and NP postcodes. If you want any info pm me.
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Hi I may be able to help.
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Looks like a Havahart collapsible trap to me I have one here. You will get squirrel in it as long as everything moves silky smooth with all the mechanism touch points.
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Victor Out o sight from America or copies. First choice for a lot of the US wildlife guys. You set them by flattening the tunnel and cutting slits for the killing arms to slide into with the trigger flat on soil over the compressed tunnel. Some people modify them with a piece of semi circular dowel fixed under the trigger plate. Beagle is bad, have a look at the Super Cat Mole Trap or the Talpirid, you wouldn’t want to carry many of them on your round
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That looks like a big improvement, as there is no dog flying up into the front/face of the animal that would cause foul catch. it is simpler and more robust too.. a little fettling with a file and you could get something very light to fire as you like. would that need to be resubmitted for the STAO for the 4 uk countries?
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Have a look at Virustaticshield.com for a mask/snood that is new technology and is much better than typical disposable masks.
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We are establishing the status of the household, ie anyone ill there, anyone vulnerable, on phone before you go. Get all the info of the nature and location over phone and when you get there have minimum communication to risk assess the need to attend. If it is likely to be a genuine health/hygiene we will go. Can you tackle it from outside. Only take in what we want. Like you ppe is always worn and we let them know that.. Tip on gloves wear a couple of gloves and you can strip them off leaving clean pairs beneath. We will ensure that clients observe the distance rules, preferably with anyone
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Fourteenacre have them.
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As has been mentioned there is now reams of paperwork - report sheets, risk assessments, environmental assessments, checklists, plans, as well as site specific inductions and safety. To get the qualifications will take time and money, RSPH 2 is the starting point and the best way would be to do some ride alongside with someone who really knows what they are up to. You could get away with doing one of the one day CRRU accredited courses for using Rodenticides to start which would be relatively cheap and give you a way in. Depending what the portfolio of work the company has can offer
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They are in S.Wales. Some areas still have natives though so you need to be sure what you are looking at. Pen Y Fan Pond above Crumlin had them. Yes you need to apply toEnflish Nature/NRW
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It is quite common. Fish the pipe out of the dust compartment. I bent a metal rod into a tight J shape with the long side as a handle, hook the short end into the collar ath the top of the tube or into the base and with a bit of jiggling you can force the tube back onto the internal section of the delivery pipe. It is a faff but needs a bit of patience nad perseverance.
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Could be condensation- hot dust and cold nozzle or cold dust and hot nozzle ?? I use DR5, have a XL8 and a bulb duster. Xl8 is great, bit of faffing to set up and put away, going into 3rd season and has just started to puff powder out into the poles from the union between main delivery tube and the pipe that attaches to the nozzle which is probably just a bit of wear and needs a few inches cutting back to get a good fit. The xl8 provides a bit of a show for the client and give impression of being professional and not something any Tom Dick or Harry would have or could do.
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We used to catch them in milk bottles as kids, peanuts in the bottom and wedge the neck up a bit so the bottle wall is at least 30degrees. They can enter but cant get back out as they cannot get grip on glass.
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If they are new out of the parcel they do have a little oil/grease on them from the manufacturing process, which may make the trigger a bit tricky and ping out. When I get them I secure triggers with bird spring wire and slosh them in a bucket of water for a couple of days, then hang them up in bunchs for a few days. This gets rid of the slipperiness. When you are setting them make sure you have the prongs of the trap in the notch of the setting tool or pliers - if they aren't the prongs are out of alignment and the twist they have makes the trigger ping out as they true themselves to the cor
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If you are going to tackle this problem now -( any rat activity should be tackled without much delay) then Hedgehogs aren't going to be an issue for around a couple of months as they are hibernating. Unless global warming steps up a gear. If its a persistent problem caused by rats moving in from elsewhere then go to Fenns/BG's. These need to be in a tunnel any way so make them with small entrances. When you do make the entrance smaller keep in mind that hedgehogs can squeeze through pretty small gaps but rats can vanish through amazingly tight gaps. If there is still a worry you can just use
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I agree, if they actually remember you don't just do moles!!!!!!!
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Not trying to be clever, but are you / the client giving the insecticide time to do its thing and taking into account the lifecycle, and if a void /unoccupied premises the delayed hatching from pupal cases. Managing client expectations regarding treatment can be tricky as nearly everyone understandably wants an instant kill with no more problems as soon as you go out the door. Ficam w is my go to prep for the job. With ref to cats - get your advice to keep cats out until dry on your report sheet in capitals and on your risk assessment and then you cover your behind fully. And lock the cat fl
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You can't buy them to use yourself, and the co2 canisters are rentokil use only too. Some of the systems have a message sender that alerts the site contact and or the servicing tech to go and empty, replace co2 widget and reset. You can get alerting systems that work with breakback traps from Killgerm called wedge, Woodstream forgotten its name and Fourteen acre has a trap alert system Mink Police I think it was called not sure it works with breakbacks. Systems are expensive but if the client has had rentokil they will have been used to expensive.
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Give him a all, calm and collected - prepare what you want to say, reiterate your conversation when he engaged you on the terms that you agreed. Don't negotiate.Inform him you will give him a week to pay in full and that if no money is forthcoming that you will start small claims court action. Keep polite and professional 'you are in control of the situation not him' no matter what big shot he thinks he is. Follow it up with a copy invoice and a letter covering the conversation you had. You have no written contract but a verbal contract is just as good. I am sure you can produce a hatful o
