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Bunny Boiler

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Everything posted by Bunny Boiler

  1. Gone? And would you sell just locator and collar?
  2. Not quite. Never got in. Didn't pass medical. Something about an allergy to bees being a liability. I keep my military ties close though and do what I can!
  3. Will bang an offer of 30 quid out there for them. Plus P&p. We'll see what happens.
  4. All my nets are 10z nylon. Cracking nets. They don't pick up shite like 4z and anything over 3"6 will bag any bunny if set right. But the best type of net is one with a coney in it, so if it works for you, get and do it.
  5. 7 year up and down mate. Rabbits have a very precise natural population graph. And the position on the graph varies on location. You are obviously in a low, while areas of Cheshire are on a high give it a few years and the high will resume. Thats not to say you have to go to a different county though. The population can change over a matter of miles. Sources: Pest and predator control surveys.
  6. Protein rich diet bud. Plenty of rabbit or raw meat. Try and avoid dog food as they wont absorb many nutrients from it (short digestive track). No milk either. They are lactose intolerant.
  7. And before I get complained at, i would like to add that I got them for free off a complete stranger, not a friend doing me a favour etc. Also, if you want to add some detail they are called Ferplast cages. Atb BB
  8. I have Two of these, one on top of the other which I have personally modified to make it connect with tubing. They love it! 3 levels in each cage, two platforms and the base like yours and a hammock at the very top tied on to the roof bars. They sleep in it and run round all day! Much better than what I had before. They're beautifully easy to clean. Recommend to anyone. The more you can have and connect though, the better obviously. 50 pounds however? I got mine for free, so dont think I would be willing to pay that...
  9. Didn't make that up by yourself did you?!?Maybe I did or maybe I didnt. But as long as knowledge learned is knowledge shared, is it a problem?
  10. I'm not sure you know what your talking about. Have you got any pics to show us of the foot deep set of a mk6. That is some excavating of the tube to ensure the trap fires. Time consuming too if your setting a few. But if it works for you? Then fair play Someone above has said judging by eye. Some you can clearly set a bit further in. I won't dig it out and disturb it if I can (and anyway, I would rather ferret). We are surrounded by sandy ground, so the holes tend to be a bit more open than some of the harder clay and rocky ground I have seen rabbits in before. Hope this clears it
  11. I am talking about a foot into the hole. And if you are checking and pegging your fenns properly, you should never lose one.
  12. Have you considered ferreting? Might be much more effective. But as said. Place it in the mouth of a hole. The rabbit shouldn't be able to hop over it if it is in a tunnel, the roof should be too low. But also as said, make sure it has clearance. If you impeed the jaws, you either live catch prey or you miss them completely.
  13. Didnt put any thief traps out then? i find bear jaws work well as a deterant.
  14. I do the same with a ceramic bowl and put it in a small rockery. There are pictures on here somewhere. Mine dry off in the hammock though. Smart feckers because the hammock is made of an old hand towel. Nice and fluffy. Drys in the heat really quickly.
  15. You can also let your other ferret help groom her. Put a spot of olive oil on the back of her neck. This will encourage your original ferret to lick and bond with her.
  16. Been letting your ferrets run up and down your trouser leg then?
  17. Ferrets, like most animals are only carriers of tetanus. This means that its harmless to them and they wont have an symptoms. It also means you can't and won't need to cure it. It does mean if you get bitten and havent had a tetanus jab, you should keep an eye on the bite and if it becomes very swollen, you should seek medical advice. Otherwise, i dont think there is a single disease that is transferable from rabbits. Dogs however, are a different case. So if your dog is ill. Keep him away from your stinkers.
  18. Its not just a case of its not worth doing mate, its impossible. They have natural instinct for defense. They tried it on mink farms. The mink bred and they tried to tame the kits from an early stage. No improvement. So they tried the next set of kits. And so on until the original generation was dead. That way, only farm reared and in constant human contact mink were there and yet they were still as agressive as ever. Several tests were done and at which point they were classified as un domesticatable. Other species (although there are a few exceptions, and others can be made harmless, li
  19. Only tetnus as far as i am aware, which is only a problem for you, if they bite and you havent had jabs. Other than that, just take caution and dont feed them diseased looking rabbits (mange or tic ridden are key to avoid).
  20. Never gunna happen mate. Many generations of mink have grown in mink farms and remained as violent as ever. They are classed as a non domesticatable animal. Just keep throwing them to the dog.
  21. Someone has posted an attached picture of the blueprints here: http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/150626-ladder-trap-plans/ This may or may not help. Atb, BB
  22. P.s where are ya located? I can't see it on my phone.
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