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victoria vixen

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Everything posted by victoria vixen

  1. Co2 gas takes about 5 seconds.........but drowning is cheaper....and doesn't take that long. If you have a problem with it, that's one thing. Just as humane as hitting it with a club in my opinion.
  2. I always used aluminum stops and double ferrels and feel they do a much better job. I was never as cheap (or poor) as some are and always demanded the best quality for myself.
  3. Victor Out-o-Site mole traps........(maybe that is a scissor trap?)
  4. I have trapped Pheasants in cage traps( both10x10x36 and 8x8x24's) set on a light trigger with shell corn as bait.
  5. Have to agree with mole catcher on that one. Well thought out and well written. One does need to keep things well away from those that disagree with the way we do things. Out of sight is often out of mind!
  6. It would be nice to get those nets, as I have seen them used and would be a lot cleaner than using a 12 gauge. Who carries them in the UK? Do you know?
  7. DS, The ferrets are used when the rabbit, (an eastern cottintail- it's called) runs in a burrow or hole. These holes are usually dug by groundhogs mostly. The ferret is sent down the hole to flush the rabbit out. It is then pursued by beagle hounds or shot on sight, usually with a shotgun.
  8. In the United States they have a similar animal, called the black footed ferret. Many also breed ferrets, or fitch, as the more beautiful furred ones are called. Ferrets are used to hunts rabbits in their dens, but are mostly kept as pets.
  9. One of the pictures looked as if a weasel ( maybe you call them stoats over there) or a young mink. The others looked like maybe crow damage.
  10. Excellent job. I always liked an in line double swivel to add to that if I were live catching foxes, if you were killin' them anyway, then it's not totally nessasary.
  11. I know that many have taken a shinney snare and caught some animals. Personally, I have not. The reason being is I feel they stand out way too much for animals and to humans. I have seen tracks in the snow that tell me animals can and do see snares at times. Namely foxes and coyotes. My theory is that the more the snare blends in with the surroundings, the better your chances are. I boil mine in baking soda and then let them bleach out in the summer sun. Anything that doesn't dull, I spray paint several colours of camo paint. The closer it blends in the better I feel my success rate will be. I
  12. I think all good points here. Just because the cat was gone for two days does in no way mean it had been captured those full two days. That is BS and no one can prove it. Cats at times do wander , for days no less. The lady should keep her cat up if she worries over it , less it be snatched by a hungry vixen feeding her pups. House cats kill a lot of game and songbirds. In the US, they are often shot on sight. Imagine a housecat along side a few thousand game birds......Mercy! Bad as any fox. I realize in many parts of the UK, your laws are totally different than laws in the states. Finally to
  13. Well, I stand corrected on the 116. I had not heard of it in the states. I do know this fall some trap laws go into effect in Canada. Which kill traps can be used for certain animals is one of those laws. Like DS, I personally liked the Beliese or the "Canadian built" Sauvageau, (pronounced Savage). Most traps I owned thruogh the years were Victor Conibears however. It was what was available at the time.
  14. I think you might mean the "160", not the 116. The BMI's are real easy to get in the states. Most trap supply house sell them. The BMI, which is a 6.5 x 6.5 kill trap(with 2 springs), sells for $. per dozen, US dealer cost. The Victor 160, which is a much better trap, sells for $129. per dozen, US. My personal choice is the Canadian built "Beliese" 160, which is more powerful. It sells for $99.us, per dozen, dealer cost.
  15. These are all very good post. Just goes to show you that there are a lot of different way to do things. Personally, I used Gregerson snares for years, just bleached out in baking soda, as they have a thin lock. On cam-lock snares, I have bleached and then camo painted, and I try to do mine in the summer sun , as I feel the paint smell disapates much better in the heat. I have though, done it indoors during the winter months and caught animals a few days later too. I always prided myself in blending a snare as good as anyone...but I've seen guys catch (some) animals in shinny new ones or snares
  16. I have seldom had the time to sit and wait on a squirrel. I use an "L" bracket with an 8'' board (8''w x15'' L x 1'' thick ) attached and mount it on the side of the tree. How high? 6-8 ft. or so. It's there I mount my cage trap with "souped up" peanut butter bait ....almond, walnut, acorn flavours to name a few. I also would hang an ear of field corn on a wire as eye appeal near by. Sometimes the squirrel feels safer in the tree than on the ground....by using this setup, I 've caught some that were a bit...shy. I caught thousands of squirrels in my 30 plus years as an ADC personal. Most ju
  17. Well, I suppose then we are talkin' about aircraft cable snares then....I have no experience with single stran, only multi-stran (1x19 or 7x7). I've always boiled them in baking soda in a clean tub. This not only removes the factory oil but bleaches them as well. Hung out in the sun, they will turn a dull grey colour. On stops or locks that still shine, I spray paint mine a camo pattern, and hit the swivels and locks and a few streaks on the cable as well. Some browns, tans, olive colours all seem to blend the snare so much better. I know of trappers who dye them or soak in vinegar over nigh
  18. Although not my photos, I can tell you that O'possums, mink,raccoon,muskrats,otter and skunk pelts etc. are stretched and dried fur side in (skin outside). While foxes and coyote are dried with the fur showing as are bobcats ,martens and other longhaired furbearers. That is the prefered way here in North America and Canada.
  19. Interesting thoughts on the subject of snaring foxes because countries differ in their laws, not everyone can use the same snares, locks or equipment that others do. I personally always liked the Gregerson Lock or the Slim Lock for low visibility....my favorite lock for killing quickly of course was the (true) cam-lock preferably on 1x19 -1/16 cable....although I've caught lots in the 7x7-5/64 too. One should remember that "entanglement" and getting the front feet off the ground, is what quickly kills most fox, or any animal for that matter. Type of lock is less important in that situation, I
  20. My question is what will you use for bait...and how will you keep it fresh with spring here? Smaller mesh with a super light pan tention would be the way I would try it. I never caught a weasel, or stoat as you call them , in a cage trap. In the US, we always used Victor rat traps, 110 conibears or foot traps like a #1 longspring with fresh bloody meat and weasel lure to catch them. I have however, used a live mouse or small bird in a cage trap to catch mink. The trap had a special "bait compartment" at the end of the trap.
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