Extremetaz
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Everything posted by Extremetaz
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How powerful can a PCP airgun be made?
Extremetaz replied to Laurence_13's topic in General Airgun Discussion
Eun Jin Sumatra is a 60J unit. Power ain't everything though - the rifle still has to be capable of placing the shot in the same spot every time. -
Use 'em in the auld boys HW100KT - straight from the tin, no messin' about - 7mm edge-to-edge groups at 25m. Great pellet!
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New camera and alot to learn.
Extremetaz replied to eddiej35's topic in Wildlife and General Photography
Well certainly looks like you're not doing too badly. Best advice that can be offered is to leave everything on manual and practice,practice,practice. Then when you're thinking about upgrading, don't! Get better glass instead. The 550 is a fine camera back and will serve you well - well wear! -
That would explain it alright - light performance of a 5.6 was what was throwing me, but the multiplier would account for that. Had to read on it as I'm not familiar with the Nikon models but it looks like a hell of a lense! Well wear!
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that's a feckin' class wee vid there lad - nice job!
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How to ruin a high end nikon
Extremetaz replied to LAKELANDY's topic in Wildlife and General Photography
:rofl: oh I really shouldn't laugh but I'd love to have seen his face when that lot landed on 'im. Poor b*****d! -
becuase db's are a log unit I get you now - I was thinking in linear unit terms rather than log. That's why I was raising the exponent.
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Even assuming the availabilty of kit and ammo group under an inch at 100m (110yard as suggested by Angryhan) from a 12ft.lb rifle, and the triggerman who can do the kit justice, the 28ft.lb rifle isn't going to make a huge difference. It might give you an extra 10-15 meters, but the bottom line is that air rifle pellets are far too ballistically inefficient to be any more stable at higher velocities. ie: just because you send it out there faster, doesn't mean it's gonna go where you expect it too - in fact, it's more likely the opposite is true. If you could get a heavier, jacketed, bo
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The S200 has a pretty small tank, so the pump will likely be fine. Bottle is more of a luxury than a necessity for the likes of those and the HW100 - it's when you start moving on to 300cc tanks and such that the pump becomes a bit of a PITA.
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does this mean that it gets louder the farther away you are?... ('pologies - couldn't resist) Spherical area surely - which would make it cubic, no? (I don't know the forumulae so I'm genuinely asking, not trying to be a smartass this time. ) In any case - I'll take a measurement this weekend of the HW100 FAC .177 & the HW100K .22, but it'll be with a Nexus S so I'm not sure how much bearing you could put on it. I've no doubt mind that anyone taking the measurement with the same incarnartion of the iPhone should get equivalent results (assuming consistant test patterns,
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aah-haw-haw don't worry - I saw what you did there.
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As you've obviously discovered already from your post above - all ammo is not created equal. Go grab yourself a box of Lapua Center-X if you can find them. They're a competition 25 & 50 meter round so they're a little more expensive than the standard stuff (about €10 for 50 over here through the club I shoot with) but they're unbelievably consistent. There's a 50m target card on the wall in our range obtained using them, it's 11mm edge to edge on 5 shots! and the lad who shot it would tell you that a better shooter could have gone tighter again! Now that's out of a target rifl
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Stillair has it nailed there alright - although it is possible to place a .22LR round quite accurately after 100m on a calm day with the right combination of rifle/ammo/shooter, there's a hell of a drop off and not really enough poke left to make it worthwhile doing. If you're going past 100m regularly though, I'd be inclined to say just get a CF licence and have it done with.
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Hard to get anything like what you're describing in that price bracket lad - maybe consider a fixed scope with mil-dots for now and upgrade later? Would give you the ability to guesstimate range almost as well as a low mag AO scope without the price penalty? Short of that, you might be able to find something like a Hawke Nite-eye or similar if you can rustle up another £50 or so. Think they're about £190 new so secondhand they shouldn't be too much of a stretch.
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lol - that's about the size of it alright - but that's the lifetime story of camera kit right there - there's always something better that you can't afford but will someday regret not having. When you get to where I'm at though, the difference is that the kit you want is no longer anywhere near the "can just about stretch to it bracket".
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:rofl:
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That lense is f5.6 on the long end IIRC, and the extenders cost you 2 stops which brings you to an f7 at your best. That's gonna means shooting in nothing but the brightest conditions and paying a serious price in your depth of field. Furthermore, I don't think it's actually compatible with the extenders to begin with - I'll fit on alright, but I'm reasonably certain that you'll loose metering and autofocus so you have to do everything on manual (but you should be doing that anyway ). This is why I tend to recommend the 70-200 IS lense - it's a helluva lot more money, but it gives you
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Dude, in the conditions you're shooting (ie: through the window) and with the camera you're using, there's not a damned thing wrong with those shots! Hell there's fella's out there with full blown SLR's couldn't do as good as job as you've done. Turn off the digital zoom though - it's a waste of time as Coyotehunter has mentioned. Get in as close as you can optically, and if you want to crop the shot later, do it on the comp - this is exactly what the camera does when you use digital zoom in any case. Keep your eye out on the advert sites - cheap kit pops up all the time - and as
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Keep an eye out for the best quality lense you can afford, and just stick whatever back you can get your hands on onto it. Reason being that you'll upgrade the camera backs every couple of years - and every year they second hand market has better and better backs on it as a result (hell if you look around enough, 1DS mkII's can be had for about £800!!). Top notch glass on the other hand will stay with you forever! Happy snapping!
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They're some decent looking shots - what lense/back combo you using for them out of curiosity?
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Think you need to re read his post Si.
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Not to talk down the issue of bullying, but @Marvin - bullying is something that you can't get away from. Does cyber bullying exist? Hell yes it does, but through things like facebook where there's a connection with your real world peers. Bullying on an autonomous forum such as this is nonesense. You'll get people who are aggressive and people who are offensive alright (guilty as charged on both counts your honor), but it's pretty damned simple to get away from them so there's sod all potential for bullying in the first place. ..and if a soul should find that they are being consistentl
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There's a lot more than just the pellets going on there lad, although you've definitely got the right ones for you machine to do it at all - fair play to ya - and with .22 no less! That's some serious shooting! We use these as a training exercise for 10m Olympic shooting - it's a standing shot with a .177 - the hole equates to about a 10.4 (max is 10.9) so it's a hell of a shot to manage it.
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I used to use a Fabarm XLR which was pretty light on recoil, but even if you can find something that's respectively soft, you could always consider getting it ported to reduce things even farther. I only just used a ported Berette O/U at a work organised clay outing there a few weeks back, hadn't ever used a ported gun before, but there was a noticable reduction in recoil over the unported version right beside it. I'm unsure of the trade off's as regards range etc... and as I mentioned, this was a clay gun not a field gun, but it might be worth looking into in any case. Furthermore, I
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Wouldn't be too worried about viewing them Ben, there's f*ck all goes wrong with them. Provided they've not suffered a heavy impact (which will result in readily visible damage), or been stored for an exceptionally long time with moisture in them (which you'll have to rely on the sellers info for in any case), then they're pretty much golden. I picked up a '98 manufactured 7L 300Bar Faber tank only a few months back on ebay, 5 years out of cert (had been sitting unused but pressurised), so I got it for a bargain. €35 for Hydro test and refill and she may as well have been shop fresh.
