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ferret100

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Everything posted by ferret100

  1. Hull & East Riding Ferret Rescue is still up and running. They do get kits in, just depends on when someone dumps them with them. They aren't keen on re-homing them for working though as they have so many dumped workers left for them to deal with.
  2. Really depends on the ferrets.... Jills come into season the first spring after their birth so they should't be giving off any signals that would rouse your hob if they are this years kits. Introductions generally go better with kits and older ferrets rather than mature ferrets being put together as that can create more conflict plus they can do more damage to each other. If your hob seems placid, you could try putting him in with the kits in a neutral place and keep a close eye over the next few hours. If they all settle to sleep together, then you're on a winner, if the hob seems agg
  3. Chipping ferts is getting much more common, their thick scruff can be a nuisance but even so they barely notice. With your new v-hob, he's not proven. Every vasectomy isn't guarenteed, regardless of if the same vet had a proven result with a previous hob. Not the straightest path, but might be worth hiring a proven v-hob on your jills for now, and you could see if any breeder would test your hob out 8 weeks post-op as it would help tell if the op was successful, the breeder would get a jill or two brought out of season (they may well come back into season later on so they could still get a
  4. When they say proven, ask for the contact details of others who've used him with their jills and check it out for yourself rather than taking his word. If he is proven, £65 is a great price. Atb, hope he is as described!
  5. In all fairness why did you work him soon if you knew he'd been caged long-term? Ferts are tough but not invincible. If he's limping, he's suffering, checkover/pain management for him and hopefully he'll work again well for you. Maybe he got his leg caught in a root or had a barny underground? Either way, he needs some pain relief regardless of the prognosis. Atb and hope he's back to himself in no time. Edited to say, it seems you're the type of owner to take good care and give them good quality time, that trait will stand in your stead. Atb again.
  6. If the hob is putting weight on the leg that's likely a better sign, however they really are tough wee animals and if it's showing a limp then there's a chance significant damage has been done. I'd reckon a vet visit would be worthwhile, ferts don't tend to show weakness unless they can't help it. Atb.
  7. ferret100

    ears

    Seems like ear mites, might be best to treat your ferret for ear mites regardless of if you're unsure, it will do no harm and prevent matters from getting worse. Atb.
  8. Main reason is the short digestive tract of ferrets, dog/cat dry food is designed to be absorbed at a rate appropriate to the species. Cat food simply passes through a ferret quicker than a ferret can properly digest it. So, if the food is mainly undigested, it's a waste of money. Atb.
  9. Coughing can be very common this time of year, during moulting they can swallow a lot of hair which irritates the throat and can present a nasty cough. If your ferts are moulting, might be best to change bedding every 3 days to reduce the cast hair and reduce the irritation. If the coughing persists, certainly take it to a vet. Obstructions in the mouth are usually very obvious. Problems in the airway are a nuisance, ferts have a very narrow throat that requires a GA to have a proper look. Any discharge from the eyes/ears/nose/mouth needs a vet to check out. There may be a chan
  10. As others have pointed out, different species require different protein/carb ratios. Cat kibble fed to ferts is a waste of money. The people at some pet store/pets at home are only bothered about selling, they'll pass off any old crap as quality. Use decent quality ferret kibble, otherwise pay for expensive ferret crap and piss and probably vets bills in the long term.
  11. As said above, look smart, try and be discrete, if anyone has a pop, tell them to take it to the boss. After all, their chemical toilet needs the shit emptied....
  12. Chipped canines are pretty common. As long as the fert is eating well, with no redness around the gum of chipped tooth, no need to worry. Tooth might become yellow with plaque in the meantime, as fert will favour the 'normal' side for chewing for now, until it adjusts. Keep an eye, but in about 6 months chipped tooth will look very similar to other, just a bit shorter. Just watch for brown discolouration and bad breath (fert..), if so, vet visit, tooth abcesses are pretty unpleasant for all involved. Atb.
  13. The hormones are kicking in and the weaker male is getting beaten up. Unless you need to breed them, get them castrated asap. Make sure the wound doesn't smell funny or have any yellow/green pus coming out of it and plaster the wound twice daily with Sudocream. If you plan to breed them, separate them, if you want to get rid of the hormonal dominance battle and keep them together, just get them castrated. Takes 10-14 days for the hormones to start to settle after castration, so they'll still squabble for a bit. If you cover the top of the head/neck and shoulders with Sudocream, it'll help stop
  14. Interesting, I know I'm repeating myself but perhaps the vasectomy is the most long standIng solution,,, Cheers tony A hoblet is a solution, but v-hobs also pose a risk to jills. It really depends on what you want long-term and what is in the best interests of your ferrets. Vasectomies are not proven, so best not to use a recently v-hob/hoblet to bring jills out of season, plus best to have the op done afer hob is in season, as the vas deferens is easier to locate, but using hoblets does risk pyometra to the jills/internal injuries and neck wounds etc. Pyometra is pretty nasty. Jill
  15. Interesting, I know I'm repeating myself but perhaps the vasectomy is the most long standIng solution,,, Cheers tony A hoblet is a solution, but v-hobs also pose a risk to jills. It really depends on what you want long-term and what is in the best interests of your ferrets. Vasectomies are not proven, so best not to use a recently v-hob/hoblet to bring jills out of season, plus best to have the op done afer hob is in season, as the vas deferens is easier to locate, but using hoblets does risk pyometra to the jills/internal injuries and neck wounds etc. Pyometra is pretty nasty. Jill
  16. Yep, you might get a discount for 5. Some/ all or none of your jills may need further jill jabs in the same season.
  17. Bring jills out of season, quite cruel not to really.
  18. Use them every now and then, once/twice a month. They hold little nutritional value, the feathers can damage the ferts oesophagus if fed often. Nice for a treat/change, but not any use for a stable diet. Atb.
  19. Yes, local villages, farms and extensive land owned and rented out by an individual. The ones that own the land/houses etc are usually Lords and/or Ladies. Edited to say, these people make their own rules as and when it suits them. They generally have their own Gamekeepers/hunts to patrol their lands at random or will (even the land rented by farmers etc),
  20. 8 years old is a decent age for a fert to reach. She does appear to be suffering, breathing and neurological issues are unlikely to be cured at this age. Unfortunately, a vet can only assess these symptoms more effectively if they are present at the time of examination. I doubt the prognosis would be good news. If these issues have continued for several months, might be best to PTS. Sorry to hear about your jill. ATB.
  21. If using 'packing peanuts' for keeping the ferts amused, make sure they are made of starch. Starch peanuts/nodules dissolve in the ferts stomach if they do chew them, the polystyrene version do not dissolve and so can cause nasty blockages. Recommend them myself, can put you in touch if you want any. Atb.
  22. Look up some info on ferret 'nip training', 'biting' etc. Not every technique works on each ferret. Might be a case of trial and error, but if the bite isn't breaking the skin, that's a good thing. Make sure your ferrets have other things to do other than eat, sleep, drink and crap on a daily basis. Bored ferrets nip/bite. Being rough with nippers/biters can backfire. Just remember ferrets (as can any animal) nip/bite for many reasons. Best to get all the info you can, see what works and sure you will get the odd nip sorted. Atb.
  23. If the ferrets have been spayed/neutered, they shouldn't require an implant to control hormones. The implant can reduce the risk of Adrenal Disease in neutered ferrets, as well as control hormones/Adrenal Disease in unneutered ferrets. Can't see why a spayed jill must have an implant. My jills are spayed, never been implanted and have no hormone issues. Atb.
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