skycat
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Everything posted by skycat
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WE used to have to buy chicken carcases from our butcher: now he's told us we can have EVERYTHING for free: he now has to pay £26 per wheelie bin full of rubbish to be taken away. the only thing I don't use is the pork rind/trimmings as my dogs don't like it anyway and I don't like the smell of it! Its worth getting friendly with your local butcher: he may be in the same boat, and being a business man he won't want to have to pay for stuff to be dumped. Be careful feeding too many bones though, as the dogs will become really constipated!
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If the pad is sliced open you'll need to keep the dog on the lead for about 3 weeks, or until it's healed; just put an old sock over the foot, then a plastic bag, held up with a bit of elastic (not too tight), and take it off when you're back home. DON'T LEAVE IT ON AT HOME; just make sure the wound stays clean, nature and the dog should do the rest.
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Nice looking pup
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[BANNED TEXT] food to give your bull crosses
skycat replied to garry2's topic in Lurchers & Running Dogs
If you think she may be cold get a coat and put it on her in the kennel: I take it she's kenneled or you wouldn't have mentioned her being cold> make sure she has a small enough space to sleep in so her body heat stays in the box around her, and make sure she has plenty of bedding. Another reason for losing weight is a heavy worm burden. Have you wormed her recently and if so what with? Make sure she has enough fat in her diet: dogs get their energy from fat. If you are feeding a complete dog food and its costing you less than £30 per bag the chances are there's not a lot of fat in -
If the cut is at the base of the stopper, i.e. close to the leg, so it is sort of under the stopper, then it'll take a long long long time to heal properly: it MUST heal from the inside out or it'll rip again the minute the dog starts running on it. There is one hell of a lot of strain on the tissues there: just look at a pic of a dog running and when it puts its weight on a leg yu can see how much that leg bends, especially when the dog is turning. Oone of my dogs did that to her stopper and it took over a month to heal 100%. If you let it split open before its healed then you are back to
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How great is that! A pup that wants to bring the rabbits to you at that age, and without being asked/told to. The future's bright for Little Ted I reckon.
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Have you seen that film? The Day After Tomorrow...........might it be happening for real in the not too distant future?
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This is going to upset some folk, but it worked for me when I have a pup lacking in confidence and dropping the dummy short. This is what I did..........got an old towel, tied a few knots in it, (or use something similar,) and I really wound the dog up with it, chucking it about and encouraging the dog to mouth it. I know, I know, we're not supposed to let dogs mouth and pull at things, but it can help if the dog is unsure of you or what its supposed to be doing. Then, when she was really happy and excited I actually played tug of war with her(this is why you need a towel or something that
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I do my best to lay off on the criticisms, but occasionally I feel the need! I think that Reload means that he would be well annoyed if his dogs 'played' with a catch, as all that sort of thing does is teach them to mess about rather than bringing an undamaged rabbit back to hand. I suppose if you don't work your dogs then its all well and good, though personally I can't see that this sort of behaviour shows up lurcher owners in a very good light from the anti/general public point of view: things being ripped to bits etc. I know the rabbit's dead already, but the dogs would do the same to
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Gut wrencher: condolences. Always a bummer when it happens: we've all been there and it never gets any easier.
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Only just found these: absolutely priceless: and bloody good writing too: its as though you're really there. Pictures with words.
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The other point to remember is that if the dog has to use up a lot of energy trying to keep warm in a cold kennel, then its going to need far more food just to maintain itself: I noticed how much less my dogs needed to eat once they had covered deep straw boxes in really cold weather.
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Hot air rises upwards: so putting a bed or box with a roof, in your building (as already suggested) will keep the dog a lot warmer than if all the heat from its body is just escaping into a larger area (like a stone building). When my dogs were in a big shed they had boxes full of straw to sleep in: they were as warm as toast. I even insulated the boxes further by putting a layer of foam on the roof then another layer of ply.
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The only problem with using bleach of any knd is that it kills the healthy tissue too, or rather, cauterises it, meaning that the healing process will take a bit longer. If there's no big flaps of skin dangling about and the dog can lick it to keep the healing process healthy, then boiled cooled salt water will clean it well. Then leave it open unless the dog is being obsessed with it and licking it too much. Use Intrasite Gel or Savln to keep it moist, and time will do the rest. If there's flaps of skin flapping about, then I'd go to the vet. Its difficult to help a lot more without seeing
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I've never yet seen a Saluki with cat's feet: they tend to have quite big feet, and like others have said the toes are often fairly long, but they should have a good arch to them, with thick pads: made for running on soft sand. Road walking and plenty of sensible regular exercise will bring the feet right, though don't expect miracles overnight if the pup hasn't had proper exercise so far in its life. I've taken on adult rescue dogs in the past whose feet were totally flat, and I have seen the feet change shape for up to a year afterwards: your pup should be fine as its still quite young.
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If the dog is shitting and spewing its most likely nerves: try feeding it in the car, sitting in the car with the dog for 20 minutes or so, first with the engine off, then try turning the engine on just for a few minutes. Sit WITH the dog, don't stick it in the boot/back etc. Progress can be very slow with this sort of thing. If the pup's very first journey in a vehicle was stressful it can affect them for life. Did you buy your pup in and where did it travel on the journey home?
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Great post: at least yours bolted: all we got today was baby buns whizzing in and out the holes and THROUGH the long net!
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A shock collar is the last thing to use in a case like this! Are you saying that you have NEVER lost your temper and hit the dog when you do finally get it on the lead? If you haven't then good for you as it always makes things worse. It sounds as if your pup has a real good case of the teenage time: time to wind you up, and its having a ball. A lot of pups go through this time when they try and test you out, pushing the boundaries, trying to be boss. Go back to basics: recall on a long lead, treat every time. Let the dog wander off in front of you then call it in: don't 'ask' or 'p
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Its a British thing to pull down anyone successful: unlike the Yanks, who really appreciate their heros of whatever type. A little story will illustrate the point.......... A well known lurcherman/figure at shows (no more details for obvious reasons) was once heard saying that there was no way he would ever sell anything to **** as this person was *********** (choose your own pick of insulting words here!). After a while it transpired that the well known lurcherman (etc) had never met ****, and had actually been talking to them for over 20 minutes without realising who they were, getting
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great looking pup: is she Kerry Blue cross? Met a bloke from Ireland who had some: awesome beasts.
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I think, not 100% sure, that Sooner was owned by Willie Tough, or possibly Goeff Ogden: can't remember which: that's all I know. Not a lot of help really I know!
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Its all very well having the dog fear you more than than his desire to chase sheep, but what if yua re out of sight, over a hill or something? Let's say he's coming back from chasing a rabbit and a sheep crosses his path and he's all fired up from the chase: somehow I don't think it' ll be enough. Though of course it does depend on the dog. IMO a shock collar, alththough drastic, is the only sure way to make sure he NEVER wants to chase them: he needs to associate the act of chasing the sheep with a shock that has nothing to do with you. It's a last resort of course, but better than having
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My own vet tells me that boosters aren't necessay: do the puppy jabs and one booster at about 14 months old, then leave it, apart from the Leptospirosis jab which does need to be done every year as the effects do not last. (This is my vet's opinion, and they are one of the rarities in the job: they don't try to sting you, though I must admit they've had a lot of dosh out of me over the last 20 years or so what with accidents etc.
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I don't think it does them any harm as I've been doing it for years, but I use that Dettol Antibacterial spray! Squirt a load over the smelly bit, slop a load of warm water over it and scrub any crusty bits (ugh!) then rinse well: smell gone: even gets rid of dead fish smell!
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Not at all: bitsa lurcher to ColliexGrey (not Hancock's)