dougy

Are we to assume your asking about Air Rifles Or Rim Fire It will not make the slightes bit of difference to the quarry if you hit it in the correct place with a decent powered air rifle if that is what your using, a head shot will kill a rabbit humanely 22 or 177, a shot in the front chest will also do the job hitting heart or lungs. If you refering to rimfire then again both will do the job, but due to the fact that a 17 HMR has a much faster and more explosive bullet it will make a bigger mess than a lower velocity solid bullet as a 22LR.

Is it the norm on this forum to be so aggresive towards other like minded sports men,believe what you wish. if Jo Blogs wishes to claim they shot 1000 rabbits 1 night then so be it, if the claim is that the fish was 17lb4oz then if it was or not does it matter that much its not like he's claiming the British record or something, if its your opinion he is telling "porky's" then it is "your opinion" If it wasnt 17lb4oz then he is only letting himself down in not being honest. . You soon seem to rise to the bait dead or live, and the one having the biggest mouth seems tobe the biggest catch on t

Having tried CCI,Eley,Lapua,Winchester,and RWS i found RWS to be the most consistantantly accurate in "My Annie". IMO, all rimfire will throw the odd flier now and again unless you spend some serious money on the competition stuff (£10+on TENEX) If you think of the manufacturing proccess they chuck out Millions of rounds a day,they cant all be perfect, You need to find the bullet manufacture that produce the bullet that is the most consistantly accurate in your rifle. Try a good selection and pick the best, then buy as many as you can from that batch. all the best, and happy safe s

I,m more than happy with mine, I have light loads for fox 110grn Vmax +59.5 grn of Varget 3100fps and the heavy stuff 200grn 54grn N160 2485fps. Grouping is excellent.

thats confused me with regards to the SSTs and V max being different, I have the SSTs for my 30.06 and assumed they were V max looking on the Hornady site. At the momoent i'm just in the proccess of loading some rounds for Boar, last year i used 200grn Accubond and found they didnt make the size exit would would of liked, dont get me wrong they produced the result, nothing moved far after being hit. I just thought i would try some thing a bit more frangible.

I think a little more development on the loads is needed there before you use it on live quarry Nice grouping

to be honest it wont make much difference with regards to tube size and lamping. It will be ideal anyway. I'll give you a tip or 2 though, I have left my illuminated reticle switched on and drained the battery a few times now, to help remind me i have taped a thin strip of glo in the dark tape square accross the dial so its easier to see if its left on, also if your lamping alone using a scope mounted lamp and suffer from scope glare off the mod put a strip of insulation tape accross the bottom 1/2 inch of the scope works a treat. £800 sound good to me, there definatly up there with the t

Have a look in the local charity shops, you need a good old trench coat, sew in the pockets yourself using some old trouser legs, jeans or moleskin, look for a coat that has a flap over the buttons or one that you button inside ovoiding any chance of the net catching, or dont bother and cut em off... Jobs a good un think about the position of the pockets, go through the motions as if you were putting the net out and note were you need the pegs and the net easy to hand

I have an IOR 4-14x50 ill ret the quallity of glass is very good i found little comparable difference comparing against a mates S&B.Very good sound clicks They are very rugged and certianly shock proof, well i gave mine a good test last winter by Going "A" over "T" sliding full length down a metal farm gate lying in the frozen grass, ended on my back while carrying a 12lb rifle, landed square on the scope, didnt shoot that night due to possible loss of zero, checked the following day, and it hadnt budged still smack on the nail I would not hesitate in buying another. mind you th

Tips for you Willum, buy the best you can afford, RCBS, LYMAN and Redding good, certianly do not go for cheap scales RCBS do very good sets, expect to pay more than £100, dies again RCBS Redding or Lyman. no need to go for the competition dies,case trimmer An accurate vernier also a good reloading book, best bet is get a mate to give you some tips. Very important be very carefull what your doing dont push the boundary's. Its a hobby in itself so be prepared to get involved, all the best

I gather you have thought before the choice of scope, sorry to sound sarcastic, is it for Deer ??? woodland stalking, open land,hill stalking, running Boar ??? Magnifcation may be an issue, As far as putting it on a 30cal i personaly went for a Leupold VX1 3-9x40 on top of a 30.06, good glass, renowned for being robust so very suitable for larger cals and not much more than Niko, i think i paid £190 for mine. Its peace of mind for me knowing that its got some 1/2 decent glass on.that wont let you down at the last minute.Compare the prices ones £170 the other £190 and look what you get, you

Its practicle. thats the important thing, keep the dog warm and pretty secure, Not posted much yet as i'm just a newbie, i can see i'll have to be carefull if i ever meet up with some of you guys, theres some ruffians on here,

Morrning Jay, If i were you unless you allready have, (if so i apologise) i would advice first of all go down the rimfire road first, you may be one of the lucky ones who is given permission for CF and even open ticket on your first application. but i doubt it.. I dont know what land you have permission on so really its an educated guess, You mention a Rem 17.... knowing staffs Bret and Andrea i doubt you will get that first off.They dont like the boy racer cals and the 17 is "THE" fast kid on the block.Yes its a good fast accurate round most of the time. but for a beginer to cut there

one of the first things is to get the correct eye relief whilst placing your scope onto the mounts. Secure the base of the mounts and tighten the screws, then place your scope onto the mounts and loosley tighten the screws so the scope is just moveable. Mount the rifle (empty)as though you were to take a shot, check eye relief, move scope to correct. Before actually tightening fully i would dry mount with eyes closed then see if you have the correct eye relief.just to double check. look through the scope at the sky. (NOT INTO THE SUN) and check you have focused the rear eye piece by gettin

Thanks for the welcome from you all. I'm from just out side Burton.