Jump to content

HUnter_zero

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    996

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by HUnter_zero

  1. HUnter_zero
    His book "one for the pot" is very good as well. Funny, I was reading it last night. John
  2. HUnter_zero
    You can buy them here : http://www.peterlawman.co.uk/reloading.php John
  3. HUnter_zero
    I used to have a vasectomized hob & castrated hob in the same hutch with six jills, the vasectomized hob used to try to mate with the castrated hob. Tried to separate them but the castrated hob used to pine for the other ferrets. In the end, I made a concoction of chillies, tabasco sauce, clove oil and black peppers. When the hob came in to season, I used to rub a little of this oil on the neck fur of the castrated hob. It took a few goes but the vasectomized hob stopped bothering the old boy. I would not recommend this to anyone, just recalling what I did, god only know what would happen
  4. HUnter_zero
    Thanks for the info, vet gave us cat laxatives, three times a day and basically said if it don't work then thats about all he can do. Good bye another £35...£108 for the tail amputation Guess I shouldn't think of it like that but it's getting silly now. John
  5. HUnter_zero
    Gilbertson & page dry ferret food ( DR John Merlin ferret food ). Jill eats the same with no problems. John
  6. HUnter_zero
    Hi Kay, sure you can. Vet had no idea and said to try laxatives. John
  7. HUnter_zero
    Sure will. We lost eight ferrets four years back due to heart worm, our vets don't really know much about war weasels, and so sometimes it's hard to actually get to the bottom of things. With the heart worm (which we traced back to slugs coming from the farm behind us), the ferrets started to cough, became lethargic, their paws started to swell. All due to their lungs trying to compensate for the damaged to their hearts. Sad times. Strange thing was one ferret wasn't effected at all but she had adrenal disease. We only have a jill and a hob now, got the jill to keep the hob company. Annoying
  8. HUnter_zero
    Here is mine, made from 1" T&G pine floor boarding & 3"x2" frame work. dimensions are 3meters x 2 meters x 1 meter. The front has removable perspex panels for the winter which has come in very handy indeed. Not cheap tho but will last forever. John
  9. HUnter_zero
    Clean both my .243 & .308 after every outing. If I haven't shot the rifle, then I just use oil but after shooting just one round, I'll use solvent. My rifles are zeroed with a cold barrel zero which takes an age to do. After six rounds my .243" will shoot .5" high and to the right, my .308" 3/4" low. I always degrease the barrel before use. My .22rf has never been cleaned. John
  10. HUnter_zero
    Sure will. We lost eight ferrets four years back due to heart worm, our vets don't really know much about war weasels, and so sometimes it's hard to actually get to the bottom of things. With the heart worm (which we traced back to slugs coming from the farm behind us), the ferrets started to cough, became lethargic, their paws started to swell. All due to their lungs trying to compensate for the damaged to their hearts. Sad times. Strange thing was one ferret wasn't effected at all but she had adrenal disease. We only have a jill and a hob now, got the jill to keep the hob company. Annoying
  11. HUnter_zero
    It's a ball holder ? John
  12. HUnter_zero
    Our hob keeps trying to go to the toilet all the time (number 2!!) Poor guy keeps straining, if you rub his belly he runs like mad to go to the toilet but again nothing seems to come out and if it does, only a small amount and very watery. He's booked in the vets tomorrow but I was wondering if anyone else has had such a problem with their ferrets. Poor guy had half his tail amputated due to a tumour late last year, he's eight years of age and I don't think it's fair to have invasive surgery if it's a hair ball, but I have a feeling that due to the amputation the cancer may have spread
  13. HUnter_zero
    You can not bleed a dead animal because the heart has stopped pumping. John
  14. HUnter_zero
    South Wales Police granted my first FAC when I was 17. John
  15. HUnter_zero
    I purchased one of the same many years back in a gun auction, paid £15 for as it was sold as "unseen" due to being a late entry. Great guns, 3" ejector .410. I sold mine to a chap and if memory serves me correctly I sent the gun to Hawks of Headcorn ????? an RFD, might be well off the mark. John
  16. HUnter_zero
    Much as everyone has a;ready said, unless you are processing a few deer a week a gambrel / hoist is the way to go. I used an old fire hose pulley for my hoist and before that I bolted four washing line pulleys together to make it easier to lift the carcass. Roe are easy to hoist, fallow easy, reds are a bit of a problem. As for stainless etc. unless your going to sell the meat (which would be illegal unless you have a game-dealers licence) why worry. Most recreational stalkers either sell the carcass to a dealer or process the meat for their own consumption. I'm going to be making a butchers
  17. HUnter_zero
    I have to agree, some professional stalkers do charge large sums of cash for what equates to nothing more than a single shot. Yes they have time, insurance, fuel, leases etc etc but then they also have the carcass to sell. I 'got-in-to' stalking around ten to fifteen years ago and quickly realised that there was not a chance in hell of me being able to afford £100+ per day, so I set about looking for land to lease. This wasn't a cheap option in the short term, as I had to get a solicitor to draw up lease documents which cost a fortune, then I had to find land and then lease land. What surprise
  18. HUnter_zero
    My Pro-hunter is a 1in12, which means shooting anything over grains is a bit hit and miss. 100 grain bullets will produce 2" groups. 58 grain V-max one hole groups. Easiest way to measure your twist rate is to push a clean rod with a tight patch in to the chamber, with a permanent marker put a line on the rod at the back of the receiver and push the rod down the barrel until it makes one complete turn, make another line with the marker pen matching up with the same location on the receiver. Remove the rod and measure the gap between the two lines, this will give you your twist rate. For exam
  19. HUnter_zero
    Good, accurate ammo but 105 grain is a little heavy for the .243 (twist dependant of course). John
  20. HUnter_zero
    .308 - Flat as possible shooting / +/- 2.5" <200 yards - readily avaliable reloading consumables / Loads and as cheap as you want. - not too expensive reloading / 1000's cases , loads of bullet options Bit heavy on the Roe, but for Fallow & Red's it's superb. John
  21. HUnter_zero
    Have a look at one of these, but I would recommend the rubber handle version. http://www.bds.org.uk/iqs/dbitemid.281/sfa.view/knives_and_sharpening_systems.html John
  22. HUnter_zero

    Got that Friday feeling!!

  23. HUnter_zero
    I select twenty five cases based on head stamp, give the cases a good once over and reject any with deformities or odd weights. 1) Full length size 2) Measure and trim case length. 3) uniform flash hole (new cases or once fired cases)& clean primer pocket 4) Tumble 5) Clean in ultra sonic cleaner 6) Dry cases 7) Inspect cases and reject any odd ones 8 Prime cases 9) charge cases 10) Seat bullet 11) Weigh each round and group in wallet according to weight Thinks that about all I do. Might take me as long as two days from start to finish or as little as two hours if I am
  24. HUnter_zero
    There are four Alpaca in a field down the road from us, I almost ran to get the rifle the first time I spotted them John
  25. HUnter_zero
    Most farmed deer will either be red or fallow, so I suspect the deer would in fact be fallow. However IIRC Rusa Deer can be farmed but I would doubt this to be the case as the UK isn't very hospital for the species and there are other complications which would make farming them not economical. Can you get a better photo? John
×
×
  • Create New...