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HUnter_zero

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Everything posted by HUnter_zero

  1. The one I have here uses a standard scope mount, the groves on the lamp are standard 11mm dovetails. What I did was to mount a scope riser block on the lamp, and that attaches to an upside down scope mount on the rifle. The reason I did that was that the dovetails on the riser block were slightly bigger than that on the lamp. John
  2. Is there a reason you have opted for the tactical type of rifle? Both of the rifles you have listed have a good pedigree and both will be accurate, however I would suggest that you go down the gun shop and handle the rifles, if you haven't already. You could also look that the Remington LTR & SPS and also the Sauer SSG or even give Andrew a call at Rifle craft and see what he has laying around. I settled on the Rem 700 SPS 20" barrel, only because of maneuverability in high seats and woodland but had I of been shooting more on the hill I would have gone for a Remington PPS or Mann
  3. Just buy a quick detachable/release scope mount. John
  4. I think he was being sarcastic! bloody cheap motor. Wish it was a 90 John
  5. .22 rf: If it's a semi-auto then give the action a good clean or the rifle will stop cycling. If your using copper washed bullets, such as stingers then you will find minimal copper fouling, but will still have copper fouling to a degree. In which case you really should give the barrel a clean with copper solvent. Obviously if the rifle gets wet, you need to clean it all over. When I fist purchased a rim fire, the guy at the club told me not to clean the barrel because rim fire barrels are made of softer steel, too much cleaning would cause more damage then too little cleaning this has st
  6. H380 is a good all round powder for the .243 & .308 John
  7. Okay, you need to get a receipt off the shop to prove you have left the rifle with an RFD for disposal (or sale). You then need to write to your Firearms department with in 72 hours by registered post to confirm you have done this. Then you need to fill in the 101 form, but instead of putting .223 on "firearms you wish to acquire" put what ever calibre you now want down. My guess is that if you have disposed of your rifle with an RFD and haven't written to the police, this is why the FEO will want to meet with you. John
  8. For a very accurate load try : 55 grain FMJBT (Litz) Sierra, driven with good brass, BR primers and BL ©-2 around 25.7 to 26.7 grains (max will give a compressed load). However my load data is not as safe as the load data you will find in a good reloading book, so please check and recheck. What I find good might well blow you to kingdom come. John
  9. Cheaper than reloading! and you could always sell the cases. John
  10. Nope, if your certificate only states .22 then your stuck with a .22rf. .222, .223, .22-250 all have a bore diameter of .22. The .22 WMR has much higher muzzle velocities. Many would suggest the .22lr has vastly many more advantages over the .22WMR. It all depends what you are going to shoot with the rifle and at what range. If noise is an issue where you shoot then the WMR isn't going to be much use. If you tend to find that you shoot rabbits at 100 yards, and see the occasional fox then the .22WMR will have distinct advantages over the .22lr. As for ammo cost, if money is an issue t
  11. Tom; The shotguns will be stored in a B.S kite marked gun safe at Toms house, Down the lane, near lane-in-town. I have sole access to the cabinet which is not shared by other certificate holders. That's all you need to write. John
  12. Depends on what you want from a rifle case buddy. There are cases and there are "CASES". Cheap gun cases can be got from here : GunTuff Padded Rifle & Scope Case With Pocket £14.99 http://www.jsramsbottom.com/products/gun-cases-soft-gun-cases/gtc-guntuff-padded-rifle-and-scope-case-with-pocket.html Not a bad case for the money. Webtex Rifle case : http://www.rifle-cases.co.uk/Rifle-Cases.asp?cat=&model=Web-Tex-Rifle-Case £40 I have one of these in green and find it to be a good case. There are more and more expensive cases, some with semi-ridged shells and
  13. So that will be a 1in10 twist rate. Working out the optimum bullet length isn't hard. Bullet length = (180 x (bullet diameter x bullet diameter) )/ twist rate so that's 1.06" for the optimum bullet length. So the rifle is more suited to deer than vermin (if I am correct on the 1in10 twist). The lightest bullet of that length would be 85 grain inter-bonds but 100 grain Hornady SP are bang on the money.If your reloading H4350 is a good powder in the .243" and I'd guess 39 to 42 grains would produce some good results. You would have been better to get say a 1in12 twist which wor
  14. Hey, I believe you will find that it is Dicker who is regurgitating the issue. This thread has come to it's end, with nothing but Berkering. Tally ho. John
  15. To be honest Dicker, either you're just plain stupid or can not read. I will again, ask the question. To be honest I'm amazed that anyone on n open forum would admit to reloading and supplying ammunition to a friend. Isn't that illegal? Now when you and your small army make it so crap that people can not ask a question on a public forum, this forum will be left to you, Ill-logical and who ever your third member of the clan of Berks is but until that point in time, I and everyone else can and will ask questions. There is an old saying "There is no such thing as a stupid question,
  16. Gosh it's the Berkshire trio I guess it's all in the name John
  17. The max OAL is governed by three things. 1) The chamber length of your rifle 2) The magazine length of your rifle 3) The physical max length of the bullet before it simply falls out of the case. Obviously the min OAL is critical, as this will cause differing levels of pressure, in fact you can adjust the min OAL to compensate loads for short barrels but don't worry about that! I have a simple rule, if the round is used for hunting, set it at a standard min OAL and forget it. I have seen people out stalking with rounds that fell apart because they were told to seat the bullet 'jus
  18. HI George. A lot to ask from a rifle I mainly shoot Fallow and Reds with the odd Roe. Obviously we shoot a lot of fox in Wales with all the Lambs running around. If you can have only one rifle, then yes the .243" will do all the above. I've shot a good few Stags with the .243" but you will be slightly under gunned and range will IMHO be critical. I find Fallow harder to stalk than reds, which are very forgiving when compared to fallow. The 6.5 is a lovely round, that said I just purchased a new .308 for the reds on open season. So to answer your question, yes & yes but the .243" i
  19. I have to be honest and say in all my years of shooting firearms/airguns and shotguns I have never shot a .1MOA group but one of the reasons for this is that I use standard factory rifle barrels. MY rifles will all have had trigger jobs, may be re-crowning work and likely to be action or pillar bedded. Oh, with the exception of a Ruger M77, where I replaced the trigger, stock and barrel. Hey, my range is open 24/7 & I can arrange a clay shoot 24/7. If you feel the need your always welcome to visit these green welsh hills. Problem I have is that I lost my spongers pass (I mean TAG) so I'd
  20. I see, my mistake, you were actually saying that the SPS tac is a very accurate rifle, I have to agree. .1" groups with a CZ Your wasted on here, no really you are. John
  21. Mr_Logic, I'm confused. You said and I quote " You talk about selecting your bullet and getting your SPS Tactical working well so fast. Means f**k-all I'm afraid. I had one of those in 223, I made it masses of different handloads and it NEVER shot more than about 1 MOA, even with the ones it hated. But now your saying : Mine shot .2-.5 MOA with 69gr Lapua Scenar. Are you sure you know how to measure group sizes? Especially as you now say that your most accurate rifle will produce .3MOA. Have I miss read your posts? I also think you have missed your calling, top ran
  22. I use a Chrony, easy to connect to the laptop. In fact I have three Chrony Chronographs. One I use on the bench, the other down by the target and I came by a third due to luck. I've had no problems shooting .177 pellets right up to .308 (and a few above) but it didn't like a .17HMR at all. Try to stay away from chronographs with small apertures, you will end up shooting it! I might have shot my original chronograph John
  23. I am interested to hear how you define "a decent load". Whats the most accurate rifle you own? What modifications has been carried out the rifle? Bet it's a custom target rifle with plenty of mods Bye for now....back up the range for me Just got back from the range. Ran my "load" through the chronograph and compared the results with Quick loads predictions. Quick load was 78 fps out! Bloody marvelous is quick load. Obviously as you point out, theory needs to be supported with real time range work. So, my .308 load for my SPS tac, produces sub MOA grouping from the start. It'
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