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HUnter_zero

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Everything posted by HUnter_zero

  1. I also use both (case tart). Both have benefits and negatives but over all the ultra sonic wins the day because it will clean both inside and outside the case (IMHO). John
  2. Treat yourself Clint! It's good stuff buddy, I am very happy with it and it's going to last a life time. John
  3. I don't rinse off the bluing, just seal it with gun oil. My preferred gun oil is Break free CPL. Cold blue is great for touching up but if you have a whole gun to do your better off using hot blue (if anyone still uses the process due to EU health and safety). That said, I have blued whole barrels in the past with cold bluing and it has worked well and was fairly hard waring. The complete process I use is, if there is rust I'll clean it off with 000 wire wool, rub (polish would be more accurate) the effected area with acetone until all grease and oil has been removed and then rub / polish the
  4. I simply use Acetone or Methylated spirits to degrease the area I need to touch up. However, I am talking about around trigger guards, bolt knobs, safety catches, shotgun forends, levers and all the little parts that constantly come in to contact with our fingers. It's amazing how a good gun can look dated and old with these areas showing ware to the bluing. I have used cold blue to blue a complete barrel once, to degrease that I used Acetone. All bluing depends upon the level of carbon in the metal, if I have a part that is hard to blue, I'll heat it up a little. The great thing with having
  5. As part of my routine cleaning I aways like to "touch up" any bluing which has been worn off due to use. The problem I have is that most of the bluing preparations just don't do a good job, either leaving a patchy finish (blamed on not degreasing correctly) or the bluing is just the wrong colour. One of the best products by far is KLEVER Quickbrowning but at £12 for 50ml it's not exactly cheap. I used to use Birchwood Casey Perma Blue Liquid which contains selenium dioxide, the product is actually very good for routine touch up, making it very easy to match in different shades of bluing rig
  6. Could be, but the cases would all be marked in the same way. Did you buy the dies new? I have 20 once fired PPU cases here, PM me your address and I'll send them to you. Give them ago and see what results you get. John
  7. So you purchased the cases new and have reloaded the cases four times. I get between six and ten uses from my cases, so four seems a little low. When you say "pin prick holes / hairline cracks" are you saying that the case wall has been breached or that the cases are marked deeply? Either way, noting changes if the cases give any cause for concern then in the bin go the cases. According to Hodgdon's reloading data: 50 GR. SPR SP Hodgdon Varget .224" 2.210" 26.5 [min] 3242 40,800 CUP 27.5C [max] 55 GR. SFIRE Hodgdon Varget .224" 2.220" 23.5 [min] 2990 45,200 PSI 25.1C [m
  8. Callum, if you have ANY doubt at all, squash and throw the cases. John
  9. Has to be a "super sling". http://www.opticswarehouse.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=OCPadSuperSling I have one on my .308 and it's great, very comfortable and extremely strong. Swivels are stitched in and are of top quality. John
  10. I just bolted mine together. On a tripod, one leg will be shorter than the other two (other wise you can not use bolts). I ended up making a short bi-pod which I use for sitting. John
  11. Same place that you enter the rifles. Calibre = what ever you need it for, so say .22 if using on a rimfire. Type= Sound moderator. where you intend to use it = name of farm. Reason= health and safety. John
  12. I have a stack of once fired RG cases (.223) that proved to be most excellent. Tell me what your offering, the worst I can say is no. (all FL sized) John
  13. If you take a closer look you _might_ find that the splatting was done post mortem. John
  14. I burn off all the odd bits of powder I'm left with. I Just put it in a square of tissue paper, wrap it up like a little bag and light the top. It's the safest way to dispose of any unused powder, inc. BP. John
  15. Well of course, everything else is just overkill John
  16. To my mind, it's a bit like comparing an Audi to a BMW. Not a lot in it, both have dedicated followers. If you reload or shoot on the range then the .308 will win due to ex-mil ammo and the availability of second hand cases. If you are 101% dedicated stalker, then the 6.5 will win. Just my 2'p worth. John
  17. Just means that both your firearm and shotgun certificates terminate on the same date. It makes it quicker and simpler for the police to issue new ones and renewals are cheaper. There can be problems sometimes because we are likely to have held a shotgun certificate for a few years before we apply for a firearms certificate. John
  18. My mate accompanied the FEO around a farm a few years ago, thinking it was best to show what he thought was an unsafe direction to shoot, he said "obviously I can not shoot down towards that direction because there is a motorway". His FAC stated " to shoot over ****** farm but not to shoot in a southerly direction " The year after that, the police revoked all suitability for firearm use. A lot of things can and do go wrong. I have one area of land I stalk deer over, it was passed as "open", meaning there was no upper limit on suitability. The land is in a different force area (nor
  19. Hi Barky, the police will take a lot of things in to account before they will 'pass' an area of land suitable for firearm use. Backstops is the first things they will be look at, is there any way to shoot in to a safe back stop. 10 & 53 acres isn't very big when it comes to firearms, that said the size of the land shouldn't really matter but it does. If there is a lack of safe back stops, then you could try and implement high seats etc. As for the foot path, yes the police will take it in to account. My very first "permission" was passed for up to .240" which was the normal back then. Due
  20. I used them for a while in my .243, standard not moly. Very fast and very flat and devastating on foxes. John
  21. They have a sale on. My mate purchased a scope from them last week, two day turn around! top guys. John
  22. I guess it's all down to taste. The Steyr SSG is the classic all time counter sniper rifle in my opinion. If you want to go down the tac rout then you could look at classic Parker Hale kit as well. Mauser modifications are also worth a glance as is AI if you have the funds. The reason I finally gave up and purchased a Remington 700 was due to the ease of buying after market modifications. I have an AI style stock on the way. John
  23. The rifle is heavy, especally compared to my Pro-hunter, even with lamp attached! John
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