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Everything posted by HUnter_zero
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MIl-dots are SO misunderstood. I'll do my best to describe how to use them! You need to establish the size of the dot, the space between the dot and the size of the dots center to center. Most mil-dot systems will be 1/4 mil sized dot, 3/4 mil distance between the dots and one whole mil center to center. Most systems are based on 10x magnification. I guess it would also be useful to understand what "Mil-dot" means. 1 milliradian equals 1 yard and 1000 yards. Okay so lets presume that your scope is as above, you can judge the range of an object as long as you know the size o
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Hi all just a quick question
HUnter_zero replied to BIGASH's topic in Rimfire, Centrefire & Shotguns
To give you a straight answer, YES you can only own shotguns with a shotgun certificate and if you needed someone to tell you that then please take many lessons BEFORE venturing out in to the fields with your shotgun. John -
Hi all just a quick question
HUnter_zero replied to BIGASH's topic in Rimfire, Centrefire & Shotguns
NO, Shotgun licenses also cover inter-continental ballistic missiles and other WMD's. IED's and tactical stun weapons with a class of over 38000 Kj or 600KVA at point of ingress. Boggles the mind it really does. and of course you can buy as many shotguns as you can store. John -
The browning is by far and wide better quality than a CZ. However you get what you pay for and CZ has consistently increased the prices of the rifles well in to the "quality" class, but this isn't due to the rifles becoming high quality over night, more due to the Yanks paying interest in the rifles. CZ rimfire ares are good, very good and very accurate. I'm not sure that bedding is a major issue with rim fire rifles, more of a sales tool. There are plenty of other options, personally I love Kimber rifles and if your lucky enough to find a .22lr Kimber grab it with both hands. John
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The simple answer is no. The moderator will be classed (although it's a ridiculous bit of UK legislation) as a firearm. It would be the the same as your mate selling you a .22rf and giving you a .223 until you have a variation. In essence your mate could not even sell it to you. However, your mate/shop could hold it for you (you could pay him in full)and you could apply for a variation, once obtained you could go and pick it up. John
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Mick, you have two options. 1) Hot black/blue 2) Cold black/blue Hot blackening is complicated to do at home but can be done, requiring a heat tank. The benefit is that hot black is more ware resistant than cold black. You could send the barrel to a gun smith, who would charge between £ and £150 depending how much polishing work would need to be done. Cold blackening, DO NOT, I REPEAT DO NOT buy the RIP OFF cold blackening that you can find in the gun shops. You will be buying 5ml or may be 15ml for £8+. Cold blackening is available on the net and you will get a life times supp
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Why would you need a HMR & .223 ? The .223 will do everything a whole LOT better than the HMR. I'd be looking at a .22rf & .223. My CZ .22rf has had the trigger done, barrel aligned, barrel re-crowned and a new stock. I can get 1 - 1.5" groups all day long at 100 yards. I sold my .223 because my .243" did everything better than the .223" but I would be lost with out my .22rf. I doubt I would buy a second hand rifle chambered for a fast shooting round (unless I was positive about the history of the rifle), however buying a second hand .22rf is fairly safe. John
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I used to own an original "T" bolt and have always regretted selling the rifle. My mate purchased one from a resent auction for £20 and is well happy with the rifle. In my opinion the straight pull back isn't much different from a Mauser type bolt action, however the barrel quality is spot on. The rifles are simply "high quality" and very accurate. John
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My tuppence worth is based on a Ruger M77 Mk1 .223 I owned. It turned out to be one of the most accurate rifles I have ever owned, that was after I. Replaced the factory trigger, research showed that Ruger were critically aware of producing sensible triggers for fear of litigation should anyone have an accident. Replaced the stock, it had a tactical plastic stock, which did nothing for accuracy at all. Trued the barrel to the action, and then decided to replace the barrel. At the same time I had the bolt and action blue printed. I guess I should have started with "My tuppence worth is bas
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Got my FAC & SGC back forward dated and one week early! (south Wales police) John
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You will get all sorts of responses from all sorts of people, I did when I enquired if my Hatsan Mk1 Escort could fire steel shot. I think the steel shot subject is one of contention. You have two main stream opinions. 1) "All" barrels in good condition can fire modern steel shot cartridges because the steel shot in enclosed in plastic as such the steel will not contact the barrel. 2) Your barrel has to be proofed for steel shot and if it is, you will have "steel shot" or a Fleur-DE-Li's stamped in to the barrel. I know it's safe to use steel in my Escort magnum because the Mk
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What range to zero my .22LR?
HUnter_zero replied to LordGamebore's topic in Rimfire, Centrefire & Shotguns
What chart? 18 yard primary zero 40 yard zero = 10 yards / -0.73 20 yards / -0.17 30 yards/ 0.08 50 yards -0.41 100 yards -7.75 18 yard zero = 10 yards -0.59 20 yards 0.12 30 yards 0.51 40 yards 0.58 50 yards 0.31 100 yards -6.31. Simple to understand? John -
What range to zero my .22LR?
HUnter_zero replied to LordGamebore's topic in Rimfire, Centrefire & Shotguns
WELL BLOW ME SIDEWAYS! I've been shooting .22rf for twenty odd years and the above has taken me by surprise. I've run the data in Sierra I6, Exbal and quick target and an 18 yard zero gives less drop @100 yards than a 40 yard zero, by 1.3" I've just fitted a new stock to my .22rf and was going out to zero the rifle, guess at what range! Top stuff Andy. John -
What range to zero my .22LR?
HUnter_zero replied to LordGamebore's topic in Rimfire, Centrefire & Shotguns
If you zero at 40 yards, your bullet will stay with in 2" from muzzle to 60 yards. John -
H322 (designed for the .223) and BL( c )-2 John
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Respect for our quarry
HUnter_zero replied to danebrewer10's topic in Rimfire, Centrefire & Shotguns
DB - great post buddy! I also agree over the photos, some of the glory photos I have seen are sickening and in most cases not suited to any form of publication. John -
My renewal visit was done and dusted in under twenty minuets and my new certificates were delivered on Friday one week ahead of schedule and forward dated by one week. 25 years of owning firearms and shoguns, and how times have changed in 25 years Set until 2015! John
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About half an hour. John
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Sounds like you have tried all manner of things but.... 1st I'd leave the barrel/mod soak in Paraffin for a few days, then I'd get one of them car engine oil filter wrenches, the ones with a rubber belt that self tightens on it's self. Attach and give it a turn, I bet you it will come off first time. 2nd if that didn't work, off to the gun shop I'd go. Bet you the barrel & crown are well knackered. John
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Where in Mid Wales are you based? Thanks John
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Give a little more info, where you found them is a good start. John
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Insurance Renewal - Who do I go with this year?
HUnter_zero replied to dave1372's topic in Rimfire, Centrefire & Shotguns
I'm in the same tub. My current insurance is with Sporting insurance services (bluefin), which has paid out when needed and has always been good value for money. However they have just changed the rules. I have always paid by direct debt, £7.50 a month. However Bluefin has stopped that now unless your are paying them £15 per month. The insurance covers all guns and equipment,5m PL, 20k PI and the premium goes up in proportion with the amount insured. So for example if you have ten guns insured for £100 each your premium would be £6 per month, twenty guns £12 per month. The change of rules me -
Deker, you _claim_ to be a professional pest controller, I am amazed that this all comes as a shock to you. FEPA is why we are in business, on reflection I'm not shocked. I hold a food hygiene certificate, it means nothing. The reason food produces / retailers need food hygiene certification is to comply with FEPA. Complying with FEPA is my job, if you want an in-depth discussion about the implications of FEPA, I am more than happy. I have sat through hours up on hours of training days to learn how to comply with FEPA and the implications of FEPA on the food industry and contractor to the f
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Deker, Food and Environment Protection Act 1985. This is the ACT that the Environmental health will use to prosecute anyone supplying food unfit for human consumption. Forget all the flow charts and self help crap, FEPA is what you need to comply with. Everything ends up back to FEPA. To be honest Deker, I don't really give a toss but what I will say is that the supply of food for human consumption is regulated with more than "guides" and flow charts. There is an old saying "it's not illegal unless you get caught" and in the case of food, most of the time people sail close to the wind. I se
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Yep No, simply because as "individual" hunters we can never comply with the requirements of storage and transportation of meat. The Environmental heath would have a field day. The hunter exemption does NOT exempt you from: • being considered as a food business operator; • registration of food businesses, traceability, FBOs’ responsibilities, HACCP, maintaining the cold chain and the probable need to provide a chiller (see game larders, including temperature controls); • requirements for hygienic transport including maintaining the cold chain (both for the in-fur/infeather