HUnter_zero
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Everything posted by HUnter_zero
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I have to be honest and say that to my eyes Leupold scopes are no better than top end Nikko scopes or Bushnell scopes and I am not that impressed with Nightforce scopes. It seems to me that " Made-in-American " means that it must be top notch and as most Yanks shoot, their opinions seem to overwhelm the Internet. If I were to spend £1500, it would have to be either Swarovski or S&B. There would have been a time when I would have put Zeiss up there as well, but again to my eyes, the modern Zeiss optics are a world away from the Zeiss optics we were seeing in the late 's to late 90's. With
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Strange, I have both German & Hungarian S&B scopes, on mine the glass quality is exactly the same and the reticule thickness is exactly the same. John
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:welcomeani: always good to have some more Welsh on here John
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Isn't that what I said The .22lr is in transient after 150 odd yards, it's not and never will be a 300 yards rifle. Following that logic, it would take more skill to shoot an airgun at 300 yards than a .22lr in which case I would agree, in the same way I would agree that hitting a coke with a stone shot from a catapult at 300 yards would take great skill but in all the above example, I would only agree if the firer could hit the 300 yard target 99% of the time. Sitting down plinking with the .22lr and shooting the odd target at 300 yards isn't skill it's luck. However hitting a 300 yard
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The max range I shoot out with my .22lr is 100 yards and will hit 99.9% of all rabbits at this range. Both my .243 & .308 are zeroed at 100 yards, I am confident at 200 yards on deer with both. In reality I could extend my .22lr range out to 110 yards but after that the trajectory is like a brick and my .243" out to 300 yards, may be ditto with the .308. Personally speaking I find the .22lr the easiest calibre to shoot, due to no recoil and the .308 the most accurate in terms of group size at 100 yards, with the .243 being the least accurate. One of my favorite summer day pass times is t
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Okay, zero the .223 at the same range that you zeroed the .22rf. The .223 has around times the muzzle velocity of the .22rf. So place a coke can out at 300 yards. Now try to shoot the coke can...... Horses for courses me thinks. John
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The FEO is correct. Certificates are granted in terms of quarry and usage. For example " Vermin control", "Fox control", " Deer stalking / control ", "Humane dispatch", "target shooting" etc. I know it seems silly that foxes are not classed as vermin by the police, but it's the way the police assess suitable calibres and that's that. John
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Eley sub's give the best accuracy in my CZ and also in a T bolt I used to own. That said I found T22's to give the best over all accuracy. John
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Very good find indeed!!! Have a look here: £5 bin's John
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Which Ultrafire Cree.
HUnter_zero replied to Karpman's topic in Rifle Reviews, Technical Help and Tips
Hmmm, yes the torches do! I have two red LED 300 lumen's and both are good out to yards on rabbits. My advice is to invest in a 900 lumen LED torch from Dealextream, yes it's going to take two to three weeks to arrive but at around £15 it beats the hell out of the Deben 900 lumen set up. John -
If you need to shoot foxes then you need the right tool for the job and a .22lr isn't the right tool for the job. Discuss the issues with your FEO and see what come from the conversation. Ask about a .22WMR or .22H as a first step. John
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Three points: 1) Have you got fox on your FAC? ( The .22rf rifle will be used for vermin and fox control ). If not, then you can not use your .22rf for fox control as it would be illegal no matter what the FEO told you. 2) A .22rf isn't really suitable for fox control. That said many thousands of foxes have fallen to the .22rf. Apply for a .223 soon as. 3) The best high velocity .22rf are the ones you leave in the shop. High velocity .22rf do not act the same with regards to wound channels and hydrostatic shock as you would find with a centerfire bullet. At 70 yards, a well placed
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Anyone used a Nikko Stirling 4-16x44 gameking?
HUnter_zero replied to tom-praireCS's topic in Reloading and Gun Maintenance
My mate purchased two, one for his .308 and one for his .243" The scopes seem to stand up to the recoil with no issues, FOV is narrow but you get what you pay for. If you are going to buy one, check out Opticswarehouse, my mate paid £50 per scope IIRC. Med mounts was what he used BTW. John -
Try the Gun shop in Pyle, they seem to be selling very cheap ammo. John
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Not knocking Kay here ( I have a lot of respect for her when it comes to ferrets ) but I have seen many people try many ways to get a ferret to release. A good few years back I was ferreting a rather large warren. My mate wanted one particular bury all to himself which didn't bother me so I set my nets and ran a long next towards the back as it was thick with Alder bushes. I could just about see my mate, but it was one of them cold, dead, frosty mornings with little pockets of mist that seem to hang around all day. All of a sudden I heard the loudest scream of pain you could imagine as I l
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Bit drastic Kay! Quickest way to get a ferret off is to put your hand around it's neck, lift your thumb over the back of it's head and on to it's forehead with the tip of your thumb level with it's eyes. Grasp and pull back with your thumb. This puts pressure on the mandibular nerve system, which leaves the ferret with no option but to open it's mouth. The ferret suffers no stress and no damage. Once you have worked out how to do this, it's fast, easy and 100% effective. John
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How old are the kits? When I breed the ferrets (not often), I'll feed the Jill on raw rabbit & Kits the same as well as leaving kibble for free feeding. Once the kits are weaned, I'll also give them mashed boiled egg. The runny poo is because they are eating a different diet and should stabilise very quickly. If not, keep a close eye on them as they can become very dehydrated very quickly. All said and done, eight to ten week old kits should be okay with kibble but and I might be alone in doing this, I also supplement their kibble as already said. On the other side of the coin, a complete
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Just feed them Kibble over the Summer months and an egg between them once a week. If you want to treat them, get some cod liver oil to mix with the egg. After a long time of continued ferret ownership something I have learned is that you will never find all the meat and flies will lay eggs in blood stains. Personally I don't like to keep maggots in my ferret hutch. You will learn. John BTW. You will even get maggots with damp kibble!!
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Must be honest and say that I don't feed raw meat at this time of year due to maggots. My lot get an egg each once a week & complete kibble which they free feed from. John
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S & B Klassic 8 x 56 on my .243" S & B (German) 6 x 42 on my .308" Bushnell 6-18x50 on my .22rf (but looking for something better) John
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I have always found "standard" army boots to be bloody terrible. Cold, kill my feet and not very waterproof at all. On top of that the bloody things "squeak". My mate is using a pair of Pro-boots (?) for stalking, the poor chap is half deaf but I can hear these boots squeaking two fields over. I can not say I have tried the more expensive German army boots, only because for the money I can get a pair of fair quality brand new walking boots from TK Max. At the moment I have three pairs of Hunters (not matter what people say IMHO if it's muddy, wellies are great but obviously not for dig
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Purchased a young Jill, three weeks down the line she had what we thought was a Prolapse, £100 vet fee and it turned out to be a tissue mass. Still got the girl, in fact she is the only ferret I have ever seen with vertigo, lovely girl she is as well. John
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Venison is the only meat my lot will not eat. John
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Guys, I think you are both stating the same point and that's colour makes no difference! Lurcher100 if you read Rakes post he said "Still shouldn`t breed from shite just because it`s the right colour for your STOCK!!" and you said "How can you tell if a ferret is shite by its colour", you were both saying the same thing!!! Kiss and make up guys!!! :db: John
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There are a lot of things you can do to improve groups but the first thing to do is openly ask yourself how tight a group do you actually need. If you are fox shooting or deer stalking, .1MOA isn't needed and in all practical field situations never achievable. Weight sorting brass isn't as accurate as sorting by internal water capacity, nor will achieve better results than neck turning. Something very easy to do is sort your bass out and mark the think side of the case (small file mark on the case head), load each round with the think side in the same location. Again neck tension, bullet c
