fizzbangwhallop

I really like my TM and put a nearly charge in the pan and press the button to finish it off...... once set up, it's ready before I've seated the bullet in the previous case. When Allan was customising scales for better accuracy he was fitting a small bracket arm to the body of the scales and supplying a small USB camera that just plugs into your computer so you don't have to get your head level with it. Cheap as chips on fleabay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140928178777?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Pics of mine..... shows the camera on it's brack

Jim, aka Torchy the battery boy would be the man to ask... and his stuff is genuine. He sells on fl;eabay under big_f_d_dor just goggle torchy and he should come up. Cheers Fizz

Just use a normal phosphor bronze bore brush the same calibre as your rifle - .22 looking at your forum name, an old one is fine. You can either get one of the RCBS/Lyman/Redding etc etc handles to screw it into or just stick the brush in your combi drill. If you have primed the cases then don't shove the brush in as far as to contact the primers. Simples. I usually buy my brushes, jags, patches etc in bulk direct from Dewey in the US, quick to post and friendly too: http://deweyrods.com atb Fizz

Hi Jake, If this is still available have you got a spec sheet for the tube... or the detail of the code and number on the tube itself? Cheers Fizz

Jigsaw.. give Jacksons a ring about your T8 first. One of my T8's perforated after 8 or 9 years and they gave me a substantial discount on a replacement from their range - I went for a Jet Z CQB for the 223. They just asked me to post the original back and the new one was sent by return, with no serial numbers on the mods it was simply a service exchange item and no need (at that time) to notify my FLO. atb FBW

Burris are bringing out a new 4-16x50 version, due in the US in July... picked up on it via fleabay watch and going through the info on the Burris site it looks pretty good... got a finer reticle too. Found it here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170793600799?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 I'll be looking hard at one of these come July, probably cheaper to import it and pay the duty etc than to pay UK prices if the current version is anything to go buy. atb Fizz

My dimmered 170 striker lamp got very hot the other week and packed up. Took it apart and found the insulation on the spade connector had melted allowing the connector to touch the metal strip (heatsink?) and short it out. Thinking it was probably a goner, I thought I'd give it another go and bent the strip away from the spade connector. Plugged it in and blow me, the bl**dy thing worked!! So, wrapped the connector in Rhino self amalgamating tape, put it back together and off we go again, 'til the next time. Got the Rhino tape on-line but have seen it in Maplins - it's good stuff

Was the Dr Bob fully seated and square to the lense... ie not the housing? They're a bit of of a tight/snug fit to start when they're new. atb FBW

Stuhlschuter...... That's neat n tidy! The problem of the adaptors moving on recoil was raised on another forum some months ago and a lot of people found it difficult to judge the right amount of pressure to the mounting screws to prevent movement. Some of them overcame it by gluing the adaptor in place on the 'scope!! If you use silicone seal at least you can get it off if needs be. atb FBW

From the one flyer it looks like an ammo problem, the group isn't bad for a standard Ruger 10/22..... my original standard barrelled one came in a plastic stock without a band and was good with winnies - even shot a rabbit with subs at 250m....... ok took 6 shots to get on it and it was very obliging in sitting still. Carrying the rifle on a sling, if it was upside down you could hear and feel the barrel bouncing against the fore-end. Sold it and bought a Target barrelled version which I had cut down to 16" which didn't shoot as well as expected after I'd relieved the wood at the tip - mi

I've had several things from knives to gloves to jackets to boots over the years and think it's just luck of the draw whether you get hit for duty, although probably a bit more likely in the last couple of years. "Shipping" adds quite bit to the total, but I can't fault their customer service - I ordered a pair of Irish Setter/Redwing boots by surface mail on-line, forgot to add a pair of gloves and emailed them asking if they could be added? "Nope, but she would send me a pair airmail for no shipping charge" And then the boots turned up by airmail too! That's me... good kit bu

You won't go wrong there Wolfie - my first pair lasted 4 years of hard work, including beating 4 days a week in tough bramble country and a month standing in 'cementy' water doing a house base. Only started leaking when I'd rubbed through the rubber coating in February last year. So, on my 'second' pair. Bought a pair at the Midland last year - unfortunately these leaked and Hamish replaced them by return - he'd had a few problems with a faulty batch. My first pair were faced leather and easy just to Nikwax or Graingers every so often but the new ones are nubuck - ok I've sprayed th

Hi Daniel, PM sent

Many thanks Rich, Much appreciated, atb Fizz

Like Smig I've got the Leupold version and use it for brushing the dust off but I'm a bit wary of using the polishing pad on the basis that if you've still got any grease or fine grit on the pad or the lense you're going to either smear or grind the glass - a very expensive risk. For years I tended to use the spectacles spray stuff with a proper cloth or papers for cleaning my glasses and 'scopes, switched to meths (as per specsavers). But I now get my specs really clean under a running tap with a touch of liquid soap on my fingers - squeaky clean every time and shake dry. The finger ti