FWBO

Right guys, I have had a look at things at home and decided to wait till summer for the mating. She is regular twice a year and I would expect to be looking at July for mating. I spoke to Maxhardcore and he has a choice of two greys for sire. I don't know enough about lurchers to make an informed decision which dog to use so if people who are interested have a preference then it might be worth guys speaking to Maxhh too. I've good experience breeding, my last litter of GWP's had 14 pups -which was too many-on a double cover mating. I will only go for a single cover and hope to rear ab

Dobes are notorious in Shutzhund because as a breed they have got problems with their recall. And I don't mean they can't remember what they had for breakfast.

You would definitely get good vision from the lab side. Mine has the best eyesight and depth perception I've seen in a dog. The problem isn't the "price" of pups though. It is getting guys to agree to take a pup on and keep it for a couple of years and get an idea of what traits it has. We need some discussion of a selection game plan

I've had rescued whippets in the past but never pups. I can pick out promising springer and wirehair pups from the litters I've bred but I know what I'm looking for in a gundog. You're looking for the pups that are clearly responding to scents around the garden. Can anyone give guidance on picking lurchers from a litter? I'm not convinced with the picking the sight hound body with a labs head is the way to go. Looking at any running dog the head needs to be light to facilitate the mechanics of how they propel themselves. Fast dogs don't have heavy heads.

I would have I actually looked at lab crosses , the wife was onboard as she wanted a pure lab,but the few lab x lurchers pups I seen online was the price of a cheap purebred lab.Trouble is lab x lurcher breeding done right and pups at a sensible price ,don't happen that often. Haha depends what you consider to be the right price;) Pups in general are going for stupid money. The wife bought a teacup yorkie, got it weighed at 10 weeks and it was 650g. A pound a f---ing gram. I was just glad she was steered off a French bulldog.

And I guess that's the problem. No one wants to run on the first crosses

Hi guys, I've got a 31/2 yr old Drakeshead black bitch and I've been thinking about putting a greyhound or long dog over her next time around. She's a good worker. She's a typical lean Drakeshead racy bitch. 25.5 kg. Biddable but keen hunter, good in cover and water. She is a good retriever. She hasn't had any injuries or illnesses. I'm looking at keeping one for myself. Anyone interested in one drop me a line. I need to know if there are enough takers to do the cross and I could do with suggestions for the sire. I'm on the Wirral

Don't get caught up in the "too young" advice game. The dog is ready to be trained when the quarry and season permit. What are you supposed to do? Lock it away for 12 months? However.. If you are running a young dog on and it flushes something then you drop it by voice. And sound like you mean it. If your dog isn't dropping reliably then you need to perfect this away from scent. Run the dog on a field you have walked and cleared any game off first. Pointing but still hunting with drive is a balancing act. The skill is recognising when to ease up on control and when to command the situa

I know a lad that bred some cockers and his vet said he wouldn't dock without seeing a shotgun licence. OTT. and there's your problem. Gold plating of legislation. Working breeds that had a tail action that required a dock were done by knowlegeable people - breeders, not dosh grabbing vets. As I understand it you need the pup chipped, you need to provide written proof of the fact you have permission to hunt or control vermin and a declaration that the dogs are intended for working. You're okay if you're in England as you can dock cross bred terriers or gundogs. If you're in Wales t

I was really worrying about the legal stuff. I've sent a PM just to talk about the theory... No not Leasowe - though I did used to have permission for a golf course nearby there You must have an idea where I mean because, to the best of my knowledge, there are only two areas on the Wirral with rabbits. As you near Neston and Ellesmere Port they seem to appear again - strange

I live on a relatively thin peninsula and due to culling by a fancy hotel and the control of a cricket club, there are no rabbits on land that was previously swarming with them. The cricket club spread a lot of mixied rabbits about as well. I am hoping to get the rabbits going on a few permissions using ferreted rabbits. There is plenty of food and cover at the sites and I was looking to dig some artificial buries to release them in. Anybody that could assist by allowing me to come ferreting with them and take some live bunnies. cheers

The simplest answer to a question is usually the correct one (Arkams Razor) So as huge males are quite rare, expensive, in high demand for breeding and therefore rarely sold and Small females are not uncommon, are worth less to the "biggest is best brigade" and therefore more likely to be sold I'd therefore put my money on it being a female. If you are not intent on breeding then I wouldn't worry.

Horses for courses Adeyhawk! I had a male Ferruge as my first bird. I'd be the first to say it was the hardest bird to man down that I've ever had but once I got it flying it was brilliant.

Nice photo Derek, Is it a falconry bird or wild?

Cheshire