Jump to content

trapperman

Members
  • Content Count

    996
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by trapperman

  1. i have looked at some posts on this subject from some time ago whilst waiting for replies. some positive some not, i have wasted money before so think i will stick with fenns have never seen a negative post on them. duckwing what is a drowning line? (i dont do much mink work)
  2. what are the springers like and where do you get them from are they cheaper than fenns. i know i sound tight but there is a credit crunch you know?
  3. i suppose it depends on how good you are at snaring, i havent had enough experience with snares to call myself anywhere near a pro but i get o.k results, if on a job i have access to the burrows i like to hole trap with mk6, if set right they catch any rabbit going in or out you can also catch rabbits in wire tunnels in fences etc:
  4. i dont think that rabbit likes them much. good pics.
  5. has anyone used the solway mk6 spring trap for rabbits i have 30 mk6 fenns but need more, i have had a bad experience buying some cheaper traps before but the solway trap has been approved for use in the uk. they are a couple of pounds cheaper but if theyre not up to scratch i will stick with the fenns. if anyone can share their thoughts on the solway trap that would be great. cheers.
  6. youre right broilers can be a bit bland because they are reared intensivly in a large shed and never see the light of day but if you get the same birds and rear them on free range (they are then free range birds not broilers) from day old they are much better, to me they are as good as any traditional breed that i have breed for the table including dorking (and you get more meat).
  7. hi all just wondering if anyone can advise me on the best length for a snare when making them yourself i have always used brought snares and had o.k results, but after reading some of the posts here realise that this is not the best sort and with the ones i have i cannot get a loop 5.5*7.5 inch which seems to be the recomended size as they are to short also how many twists is the best,someone once told me to twist them with a cordless drill with a hook on the end would this work? sorry but just one last thing i have always used hazel tealers, is there any advantage to wire ones or is
  8. i was stupid enough to place an order with moleman 10 magnum traps and 10 duffus mole traps 2 of the magnums were broken on delivery and the ones that did work were so weak i could set them off with my hand and it didnt even hurt the mole traps were just complete shite i havent used any of these traps 60 quid well wasted but a good lesson learned(you get what you pay for with spring traps) i did contact them but they were not interested and did not even replace the broken ones
  9. if you want to eat them dont bother with hybrids as theres more meat on my slippers than one of these birds. i breed light sussex chickens which are duel purpose for eggs and meat, even so to get much meat you still need to seperate them off and fattern them with fatterners ration. i keep my hens for eggs and sell a few off to people to keep, when i want meat birds i buy in some basic cobb type and rear them for 8 weeks on free range they are only 50 pence each and very easy to rear.
  10. hi mate, sorry this post is a couple of weeks late but was just looking at this site (browsing),this is my first post. when i have this problem in garden jobs i have tryed a method that i thought up and it seems to work quite well, i use cheap chicken mesh 2" holes 3 foot high about 30 quid for 50 metres "online" once youve got it it lasts a long time, i put this up as a tempary rabbit fence with canes but i have holes cut in it about every 5 paces on these i fix wire tunnels 2 foot long i leave the fence up for a week to 10 days to let the rabbits get used to using the new entrances then i s
×
×
  • Create New...