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andyf

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Everything posted by andyf

  1. andyf
    I put a Brooks trigger kit in my CZ American 17HMR, excellent! I used the lightest spring and the largest spacer, the trigger is now almost on a par with my other with my others (Sako Finnfire factory unit, and Browning A Bolt with a Timney), and vastly improved from the factory set up. As someone else said you can get a complete replacement (e.g. 'Jewel') trigger group, and although I don't have one I have tried someone else's, yes better than the Brooks, but only because creep is eliminated fully, so worth the money? not sure? Also I believe the stock has to be machined out deeper to accept
  2. andyf
    My little selection as follows: SAKO Finnfire Varmint, .22RF, cut down to 17", SAK moderator, 30mm Leupold VX3 4,5>14x50 LRT Varmint ret. 4" sunshade & 'sexy' Alumina flip ups, Sportsmatch reach forward mounts, Harris Swivel BR bipod, 3 Mags 2 x 5 shot & 1 x 9 shot. CZ452 17HMR American, Left hand bolt, 16" carbine, Wildcat 17 Whisper moderator, 30mm Leupold VX3 6,5>20x50 LRT Varmint ret. 4" sunshade, Alumina flip ups, Sportsmatch reach forward mounts, Harris Swivel BR bipod, Eric Brooks trigger kit, 3 x 5 shot Mags. Browning 'A' bolt Medalion .270 Win, Left hand bolt, Wildcat
  3. andyf
    Realtime now, the .22 rimfire will kill anything that flys/swims/crawls in these Islands. So I don't need 50 calibre cannons or flame throwers, I just need to hide in the 'bushes' until whatever I want to eat comes closer than 50 yards. How hard is that? (If you'll pardon the pun). Surviving you I'd say AF
  4. andyf
    .222 Great round for 'The Reynard', noisy like anything else that isn't a .22 rimfire. The .222 is an OK choice, but you will HAVE to reload in the future so get used to the idea, also if you have a .22 RF now, brace yourself for the cost of centrefire ammo. NOT FUNNY scorching bunnies on the way back to the car at £1.20 a pop is your choice!! Also in relation to the 22.250, you may regard that .222 and .223 use SMALL rifle primers, everything else .22.250 .243 and up use LARGE rifle primers (so what! I hear you say), Deer is what I say, maybe for you its only fox etc today, but any .222/.
  5. andyf
    The Eric Brooks gear is brilliant, I fitted the trigger kit to my 16" 17HMR CZ452 American carbine, I also have a SAKO Finnfire Varmint .22 (Factory trigger) and a Browning A-Bolt Centrefire with a Timney spring kit, so they are a good benchmark! As a self fitted 'add on' I can't fault it, it is still a tiny bit 'creepy' but this is read-able and compared with the factory unit or other budget rifle units and especiially any semi-auto in 'THE WORLD' it is excellent. I fitted the lightest spring and the largest diameter sleeve (on the edge me), I also bought the replacement hex socket screw set
  6. andyf
    Oh dear! Your shopkeeper is a knob, as previously stated the 60 buy hold 100 appplies ONLY to loaded ammo, the reason it's 60 and 100 is because nearly all factory centrefire ammo comes in boxes of 20, and 60/100 divides nicely by 20. In fact your granny can buy 1,000's of FMJ bullet heads in all the calibres and all the weights that his shop has without any authority at all, you can even have them posted to you. (Doh! Mr Homer Gunshop man) Shop somewhere else if I were you, if he doesn't understand basic stuff like that what other 'howlers' has he up his sleeve? AF
  7. andyf
    I have a 16" carbine CZ452 American 17HMR, I had a SAK on mine at first because I already had a spare one in 'the cupboard', but as I had a slot on my FAC for a Moddy for the 17, I bought a Wildcat Whisper in the 17 calibre specific, it cost me £120 at the CLA gamefair last year (from Gunshop Rugby stand). So is it any good? Well, it's vey well made, only adds about 2" to length of the rifle, because it's an over the barrel type. However I can't tell any difference at all from the SAK in terms of noise reduction! There is of course definitely an improvement as compared with no moderator at
  8. andyf
    50 Yards for me to! On my Leupold VX3 LRT Varmint ret when the centre cross of the ret. at 50 yards is spot on, the next 'rung' down on the ladder is dead on at 100 yards, (which was nice). I think ammo is the key to the .22. I mostly use Winchester Subs or RWS, both are very consistent and if mixed up I can't tell the difference. I used to get some Magtech (from Brazil) a few years ago (massive hole in the hollow point), these were cheapo' but every bit as good as the other two, but haven't seen any for ages? I have used Eley, and they are fine as well, but the bullets are dipped in paraf
  9. andyf
    Sorry to say I think you are barking up the wrong tree with this one. These bullets are too light for the 22.250, I tried all the sorts I could find in mine, the lightest I tried were 45gr, these shot all over the place, even when slowed down below the nominal of 55gr velocity figures. Also the bullet is so short that you end up with next to nothing protruding from the bottleneck of the case, and no chance of getting it anywhere near the rifling, leaving a jump of probably 0.040" or even more! I like to have at least 1 diameter (.224 in this case) inserted into the case neck, I believe this
  10. andyf
  11. andyf
    I have a Wildcat Predator 8 on my .270 Win, I should say that it is my first centrefire moderator, but I have experienced most of the 'cooking' varieties on friends rifles (i.e. Ase-utra, T8 etc etc) Mine is very good, the .270 is a hot round, loud and powerful, (the 'Metalica' of rifle cartridges), having owned this rifle for 3 years before fitting the 'Moddy I know the difference, mine had a BOSS muzzle brake and was seriously ear breaking in that configuration. It's the cartridge that makes the difference though, my buddy's .243 is tamed (by a T8) to the extent that its like a .22 rimfire
  12. andyf
    I have had a lot of various centrefire .22's, the 'best' was (suprise suprise) the most expensive, a 22.250 VSSF Remy, and a hideously expensive scope on the top, it could (off a bipod) head shoot a fox from 200yds, but my mates BRNO 527 with a 'decent' scope was nearly as good but at a fraction of the cost, handloaded ammo from our bench was the common thread. I now use a Browning A-Bolt Medalion in .270Win as a Deer plus Vermin rifle, Handloaded 110Gr Hornady Vmax on 59Gr of R22 is the magic formulae for Renard, it makes a mess but Hey were not eating the result. My buddy currently uses a
  13. andyf
    I bought a FoxPro FX3 in the USA back in September, It's got the 500 yard remote control, and 20+ pre loaded calls. I have only used the Rabbit Squealer and Bird Distress calls, but WOW!! It's the answer. Why: 1. You are not at the same place as the scource of the squeeking. 2. You are hidden away at YOUR choice of location. 3. The Fox does not look in your direction when 'stalking' the noise. 4, You control the Frequency, Volume and the Call used. I have had a fox come right up to the call mounted on a wire stake loop, and try to grab it, this fox ran off for 75 yards then when I start
  14. andyf
    Easy Peasy!! Get down the charity shop, I have a nice small-size dark blue canvas 'Girly' backpack, with shoulder straps., The battery lives in there nicely, the 'curly' lead comes out of the lid, under my arm and clicks into my Lightforce 170, all the weight is high and central, out of the way, AND two free hands. Also tip of the year, I have a christmas cracker quality LED key fob light pinned on my jacket, when I need a bit of low level local light Re. Electric fences, Muddy Gateways, Were's the empty case etc etc just push the 'tit' and enough blue light saves the day. CHEERS AF
  15. andyf
    You have had some sound advice re. zeroing, I suggest you need to 'start at the very beginning' (as the song says), and get your scope fixed on your rifle properly first. Many people overlook this very significant step or just don't understand the importance, the scope mounts you use are just as important as the scope (the .22 rimfire cartridge and rifle are already as good as it gets, and are better than you or me, so it's the attention to detail HERE that makes the difference). When tightened up the scope object bell, (the fat bit at the front end) should almost touch the barrel, if you ca
  16. andyf
    I have a Wildcat Whisper on my 16" CZ 17HMR, I previously had a SAK, both are OK, if I'm honest the sound reduction is pretty much on a par. However the Wildcat is fully stripable, and only extends the rifle by about 3" (Old money). So if only for that it trumps the SAK. If you shoot five or six rounds through the Wildcat on a cold night (is there any other kind?) then pull it apart you will find it is soaking in condensation and full of grey 'grit', I presume the same condition effects the other moderators, so being able to strip it fully is an advantage. The DM80 looks 'on paper' fairly go
  17. andyf
    Hi: Your issue will be that you are 'moving' to a new/different Police authority, you won't have a problem as long as your certificate(s) are current. You MUST inform BOTH Police authorities that you have moved, and from where to where! The problem you may encounter is when your renewal comes up, you have been used to a rural Police presence, now you are in 'town' things may get a bit more intense. I assume your shooting permissions are still relevant in your 'old' location, these are valid (even though they maybe hours of driving away, you could do well to keep these intact). You need
  18. andyf
    Well: I have a Berretta 303, (get one), there are loads out there, in the 1970>'s these were the favoured gun, thousands were sold in the UK (Mike Yardley of BASC and other magazines still has his original one), I rest my case. They are available in various barrel configurations, 26" to 32" all multi choke, and can be had for about £375>£450 for a reasonable example, just pick one that is not too 'battered'. Mine is a 26" sporter, I have owned it for 12 years and it has only mis-fired twice in over 5,000 attempts, and that was probably duff cartridges, a light clean and a serious st
  19. andyf
    OK: I have a SAKO Finnfire Varmint, cut down to 17" with a SAK Moderator, I have used Winchester Subs for over 15 years now, though to be honest it's the ones that that my favoured shop usually keeps (Martin Elworthy's in Cornwall). I have found them exceptionally good, 1/2" groups at a lasered 75 yards (off a bipod) in ideal conditions. So I'm not about to change, however I have tried Eleys and RWS, both of which are very close to the Winny's. In the 'old' days (C.1970's, I know I am an 'Old T*at'). RWS were king, they had nickel plated cases, and in those days I used an Anschutz 10 shot
  20. andyf
    Well: Why a .204? Unless you already reload, or only shoot a 100 rounds a year don't bother! Poss. get a .223, plenty of rifles to choose from, good general purpose round and you can get decent factory ammo anywhere. I think you should go for a 17HMR and a .243, that way you can smoke crows at 120 yards with the 17, and use the .243 at 100 to 250. Then if you get a chance at a deer you are fixed up with a legal rifle. Anyway all of the above is trashed if you buy a cheap (rubbish) scope, if you must get a .204, at least obey the laws of physics and get a 'proper' scope, that means if it
  21. andyf
    I fitted a Brooks kit to my .17 CZ American 16" Left Hand carbine, thinest spring and tightest spacer, excellent result, close to a custom trigger as you can get this side of $$$$$. Got mine from USA by post OK, also got the hex (Allen) head screw kit, also a great idea. Good shooting AF
  22. andyf
    The 17hmr has given the scope manufacturers a bit of a problem, it's alright to use an (airgun) grade scope on a .22RF. Most people do, and they work just fine. Because despite outrageous claims about 'always' and 'regularly' shooting rabbits at 120 even 150 yards with a rimfire. I would say most rabbits are shot between 25 and 75 yards, the only difference between a decent airgun and a .22RF is the a RF has the 'puff' to actually kill a rabbit past 30 yards. Now the .17 has come along and thrown a spanner in the works, it can and does shoot accurately and has the power to kill rabbit sized g
  23. andyf
    I have a Leupold RX1, bought in the States for $220 last year, it works really well, it's only the basic model, and the max measurable range is about 475>525 yards, (depends on what the target is and for some reason the brightness of the day?). It uses a single camera battery, these cost £4.00+ ea. and they only guarantee 200'ish laser shots from each, that said I have only replaced mine once. Anyway it's a nice toy, and I use it quite a lot, mostly for setting up my zeroing targets at the 'correct' range. Also when out stalking or pigeon decoying I can sit in my high seat or hide and c
  24. andyf
    Cleaning the .17 regularly is in my experience essential to keep it shooting anywhere near right, every 75'ish is my benchmark. Also get a proper dedicated cleaning rod AND a bore guide, Midway UK is a good website so is Rimfire Magic, but expect to pay Circa £40.00 for the Rod and Brushes, Also the brushes don't last long, the bristles are so short they bend over and stop working after a few uses, I buy 6 at a time. You can tell when you put a new one on as the force needed to push it down the bore is at least double that of a worn/knackered one. I use Remington Bore Cleaner, I bought mine
  25. andyf
    As the others have advised, the heart-lung shot is the one for me, I have also shot loads of foxes over many years with both a .22 and laterly a 17HMR, but neither is the calibre of choice for me. It used to be that in some places my centrefire was just too loud to use near houses at night, but with the advent of CF moderators (Predator 8 on mine) this is now a thing of the past. A good front body hit with a Varmint bullet loaded CF will almost always kill a fox instantly. After all your not going to eat a fox, so massive carcase damage is no big deal. I use my Stalking rifle a .270 Win but
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