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andyf

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Everything posted by andyf

  1. Hi: I reckon your idea of a No4 is about dead right. The No4 is a 'better grade' Yeoman with ejectors, excellent guns, but it's hard to tell them apart because they are really just about identical, I think that there is also a Yeoman ejector as well? Anyway as a guide better wood, and ejectors are the common denominator. You can't go wrong with this gun, I can't imagine why 'cheap' OU's are generally more popular, as they are inferior in almost all departments. AndyF
  2. OK: An unmoderated .22 with subsonic ammo is nowhere near as loud as a 17hmr in anyway shape or form. BUT as the others have stated the noise is not really an issue to the Rabbits, I once shot 47 Rabbits in just over an hour stood in plain sight at 50 yards range using HV .22's, they really didn't seem to be bothered by my rifle's 'crack' again and again. However I use my moderated .22 all the time as the local HUMANS can't hear me, and that's the point, these days (sadly) the country is full of 'a place in the country' Townies, and they don't get it at all when someone with a rifle a
  3. Well: Buy lead quickley everyone! Reload (Like me), get the 'stuff' while U can, I'll be reloading while 'they' discuss the pros & cons. Lead Rules in my opinion! 'They' don't shoot so get your 'Ar***@ in gear!! AndyF
  4. Well: Off the wall, I have a 'Foxpro FX3' remote control Gamecall I bought in America about three years ago, and I use it for Foxes with my rifles, but it has Crow calls loaded. I have tried them for a laugh a few times and Whoo! the local Crows go mental and mob the 'noise' with a vengance. I have never tried to shoot Crows over this with my shotguns, and I think it's actually illegal in the UK to do so (Advice wise ones??) Anyway I've flashed this call up in America (Tennessee), Southern Ireland, and here in the South West (Devon/Cornwall) and Oh Dear! It's just crazy, If it's legal the
  5. Well: Moly coating is a type of lubricant, which (it is claimed) reduces barrel wear, and 'speeds up' the bullet's velocity, both things being 'good' if they are true. For myself I don't know? and I'm not going to try it my rifles, as if it's tosh the best result is no improvement but just spent more money, at worst I've shafted my barrel. Thanks but NO THANKS AndyF
  6. Hi: For an airgun the 8x56 is a bit 'Big', fine on a Stalking rifle but not useful on an airgun, get the 6x42. Also if you look outside Schmidt steer clear of high mag. centrefire variables with parallax adjustment, as you cannot focus them under 75 yards. I know I bought a Leupold VX3 6,5>20x50 LRT for my .22 rimfire and could not see but a 'hazy' Rabbit at my favoured zeroing range! Had to buy the same scope in 4,5>14 for the rimfire, and then get a .22 centrefire for the 'old' scope! AndyF
  7. OK Lightforce for me, I've had one for 7 years, totally happy with it, I carry my battery in a 'girly' backpack bag from a charity shop, with the curly lead under my arm up to the scope mounted lamp (I use a Red filter, but that's another story) hands free and easy to use. The switch is taped to the lamp body as I also use the lamp 'free style' when out with my mate i.e. not gun mounted, all the leads have 'bullet' connectors so we can mix and match our lamping gear/batteries in the field. The original switch broke after about 3 years, so I replaced it with one from Wickes, apart from tha
  8. Well: I have been where you are right now, started with a .223 because I new I would get the FAC variation, it's a good cartridge however this is one centrefire that uses small rifle primers, most common others (including the 22.250) use large rifle primers. I started reloading at about the same time and then got a .270 for Deer, so I changed to a 22.250 for Fox at the same time. To be honest it's the Rifle and Scope that make the difference between OK and Oh Dear VERY Good! Not the cartridge, But now I have a few years on the clock, and 1,000's of rounds my opinion is that the 22.250 is
  9. A centrefire 'booms' like a shotgun, in fact if you don't know the difference that's what you would think you heard if A CF was fired a couple of fields away. A .22 with HV and a 17hmr make that 'craack' you are concerned about. A centrefire with a moderator is really helped along especially at the sharp end, i.e. by the user, the effect is better when you are in open ground and the sound is not reflected back by hedges/trees etc etc. The rimfires are much less friendly when it comes to noise, as most people when hearing one know what it is, but a CF sounds just like a shotgun and usuall
  10. Well: I don't think it makes any difference at all, , what are you planning to do about the difference in the weights anyway? What you need to concentrate on are the things YOU can influence, bullet, powder, primer and most of all consistancy in all of the preceeding, get only the best of components, take great care especially with the powder charge weight and the bullet seating. The case is 'only' a container for the powder and a grip for the bullet, not anything to get excited about, but if your losing sleep trade it for a .223 get Lapau brass and sleep easy! AndyF Lets talk a
  11. I bet your 'gun dealer' has a few Mannlicher's in his rack? He is trying to sell guns remember, and his selection HAS to have your 'new' rifle in it. You should be getting a very good rifle if you are spending £1200, any second hand Mannlicher is NOT a £1200 gun. Only my opinion but you can't go wrong with a Remington, Ruger, Browning or Sako. AndyF
  12. OK I'm a 'lefty' to, I have two left hand bolts and a Ruger number 1, I think you will struggle to find a LH bolt action Hornet, but in .223 will be easy, as Remington Ruger and Browning all make LH bolt variants in most of their models and all make .223. Have a look at the Ruger No 1 if your not familiar, single shot with a martini type under lever, mine's a 22.250 varmint, excellent all round, and I think it's still made or at least used to be made in Hornet? The Hornet is quite a mild round so a second hand one should be perfectly fine. AndyF
  13. Phoshor bronze brushes are fine, no worry there. However I suggest you get a bore guide, this is a tube which replaces the bolt when you remove it to clean the bore. You can get gun specific types if you have a 'common' make rifle, or a universal one if you don't, Midway UK website has a whole bunch of gear for cleaning if you can't find one elsewhere. AndyF
  14. Yes 17hmr is RUBBISH for fox, I had one for 2 years and although I only shot 2 foxes with it, had to shoot both of them at least twice, (I have two centrefires so never set out to shoot a fox with the 17) That said who's watching when you are out and about? Also neither fox made it to fight another day. I've also shot loads of foxes with a .22 rimfire, to be honest at close range (less than 75 yards) the .22 performed better than the 17. Anyway a centrefire .22 is the lowest rung for foxes in my opinion, and it seems in most police authority areas as well. AndyF
  15. Just a point to consider. A fast twist barrel (1 in 9) will stabilise heavier bullets, 60gr+, BUT it will spray 55gr and lighter all over the town. You can't have it both ways, obviously if you could all .22 centrefires would be 1 in 9? AndyF
  16. Well: I don't think it makes any difference at all, and given that YOU have NO CHOICE of brass because you bought a 'weird' calibre, what are you planning to do about the difference in the weights anyway? What you need to concentrate on are the things YOU can influence, bullet, powder, primer and most of all consistancy in all of the preceeding, get only the best of components, take great care especially with the powder charge weight and the bullet seating. The case is 'only' a container for the powder and a grip for the bullet, not anything to get excited about, but if your losing sleep
  17. Well, for a start it depends what you a zeroing, a .22 rimfire or a .50BMG? I take it you are probably on an Airgun or a Rimfire. Firstly make sure your scope is RIGHT, that is the cross hairs are 'straight' and the eye relief for you is OK and comfortable, the screws are 'nipped up' but not murderously tight. I have seen some real cock-ups with the above, so if your not sure get someone who knows what they are about to help you. Now put up a paper target at least 2 feet square with a 2" black circle in the middle (black felt pen is ideal), then set it up ONLY 20 yards'ish away, rest you
  18. Robbo: Have a look a the 'Foxpro FX3', I have one, but I bought mine in America when on holiday last year (Tennessee, Cabela's), you can get them here but they are way too expensive (£350.00+). That said I can't find a better unit, the remote control works to over 300 yards tried and proved, (they say 700 yards 'on the tin' but I can't get that far away from it, and I couldn't hear it from that far anyway? Also you can download new calls/sounds from the internet via a USB lead These are the best practical electronic caller available, !IDEA! take your kids to Disneyland in Orlando and buy
  19. Try Midway UK! Or alternatively; I bought mine from Cabelas Website in the USA via mailorder, took 14 days no problem. AndyF
  20. Well PH, firstly it's 'CHOKE'. But that's detail, you don't say if you have a O/U>S/S or a Semi-Auto? Assuming you only have 1 choke to play with you must have a semi-auto i.e. one barrel. Then I would reccomend a 1/2 choke, but pick your shells properly as this is MORE important than the degree of choke (in my opinion?). For Mid to High Pigeons I would use 32 Gram No5's in the felt wad, I prefer to us lots of pellets of a medium/large size through a fairly open choke. However if you have a double barrel variable choke shotgun, then I would reccomend true cylinder in the 'open' barr
  21. Well: I shoot quite a lot from June through September in daylight during the evenings, I use a Foxpro Fx3 remote control electronic caller set up in a variety of favourite spots, but I also have several mouth blown calls and bulb type squeelers. One of my best spots in on top of a round bale stack which is at the edge of a large field, being about 8 feet above the ground I can see a fair way, also into three more adjacent fields. Also I tend to bait-up the target area with dead rabbits shot with my .22 over a week or so before I try for a Fox, I set the Foxpro up, hung from a hooked steel
  22. Clint: I have an A Bolt Medalion in .270, and have experienced the same problem once in while, mine was caused by reloading 'used' brass that had previously been fired in another rifle, the headspace was too long from the other rifle's chamber, thats the length from the tapered shoulder of the 'bottleneck' to the flat base of the case. In mine you could chamber the round but the bolt wouldn't 'shut' fully, jamming about halfway down. Don't worry you can't fire it in this state! By using fresh brass and fired cases from my rifle only this has not re-occured. AndyF
  23. A lot of the ammo that I used to bring home from the range used to 'crack' even with the moderator. It's 'supposed' to be 60 fps below the speed of sound. Now, to open an old wound, would a longer barrel be better for stuff like Stingers? AND, what about barrel wear using stingers? Is it noticeable or negligible? No need to worry about barrel wear with any sort of .22rf, the barrel never even gets warm let alone blown away! Stinger's are a bit 'wild' and sometimes 'crunch' a bit when you chamber them, as the case is longer and the bullet shorter than standard .22rf. I have tried t
  24. I have a HW100 carbine in .177, it's brilliant, I mostly shoot centrefire so it is a real pleasure to shoot something that doesn't 'bite'. The only critisism I could make of the carbine version is that the air cylinder is so small (short) that the air only lasts about 20 shots in the 'green' zone of the pressure gauge. But other than that the Rats in my back garden live in fear of the 'German' sniper in the kitchen! Also for reference Crossman Accupels do the 'Biz. AndyF
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