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andyf

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Everything posted by andyf

  1. andyf
    Got a Wildcat on my .270, and believe me that's a thumper noise wise, the wildcat tames it right down, so its very good. Strip-able as well, you'd be surprised the gunk that collects inside, just a tad heavy though (I cured that by buying another rifle and not having a mod on that one, he he). I've got a Hardy from Riflecraft on my 22.250 that's also very good, but light as a feather, not strip-able though so remains to be seen how it will last? AF
  2. andyf
    As you set your scope at 50 yards I think it's safe to assume its a .22 rimfire? So a .22 Rabbit rifle means you don't need to worry about 'ballistic' this and 'Mili-radian' that, other folks lose sleep about that stuff, but you won't need to. However what it does give you is a series of pre-set repeatable aim off points, just set some targets out at known range closer in and further away from your chosen zero point and then determine which 'dot' higher or lower coincides with a hit, and your fixed. AndyF
  3. andyf
    Can't do better than a Berreta A301 / 2 / 3, there are loads of these about, they were very popular in the 1980's. Also the barrels are swap friendly, so a spare of different length is feasible. Expect to pay £450>500. the 301 series is usualy fixed choke, but the rest all have the 'standard' screw in Berreta system. I've had an A303 for about 14 years, and although I have other premium grade OU & SS I must admit the old Semi-Auto is a favourite. AndyF
  4. andyf
    Hi; I get the idea, why don't you get whatever you fancy on an 'approved range only basis' as it's only expanding ammo you can't have. Then when you go to (e.g.) Croatia Boar hunting, get a European firearms pass for it, and buy the ammo locally out there? You can then of course shoot it at home but with non-expanding bullets. You just need a club range that takes the bigger calibres. AndyF
  5. andyf
    Hi: For £800 to £1,000 you can take your pick from a load of second hand 'standard' brandname OU's, i.e. Berretta, Browning, Miroku, Winchester etc and to be honest there's not much to pick between any of them, sometimes an older fixed choke 28" gun in top condition can be had cheaply because it's not the 'latest' format, and that would probably be your best bet for first gun, good well made gun, and easy to trade-in if that's were your going. Just don't be tempted by a 'specialised' gun, typically a trap gun e.g. with a weird rib or adjustable comb, these are fine for what there intended
  6. andyf
    Hi Dan; Regarding re-zero, that's the magic of Laser, if you zero with Sub's at 50/70 yards, then Laser are just about spot-on at 100 (that's why I like them). Like you I shoot almost always with Sub's, but keep a spare 5 shot mag with HV's in my pocket, so if a longer shot comes up I just change mags and eject the Sub that's in the barrel them load the HV, takes seconds and is quiet. If you get a closer shot just straight after just remember to aim 2" low Simples.
  7. andyf
    Yes again: I have used Laser for years (since the 1980's), very good they are to in all the rimfire's I've owned. I haven't been able to get them easily for a while, but buy them if I find any (got some at this years CLA Gamefair). Mostly I use CCI Velocitor for HV these days, as they are just about identical to Laser and superior to the 'others' in my opinion - of course.
  8. andyf
    Hi: Well (my opinion only), 17hmr not so good for Rabbits because unless you can never get closer than 100 yards, the 22rf is exactly the required capability, the ammo is 'cheap as chips', subs with a moderator is very quiet (more for avoiding the attention of the 'general public' than anything else). The 17hmr has expensive ammo, loud crack every time, and (when I had one) copper jacket shards filled the Rabbit carcases as the bullet explodes inside, dead is dead but no use for me. As for Foxes the 17hmr (again my opinion only) is just not enough gun, I shot a few with mine, none killed
  9. andyf
    Hi: No need to bed a rimfire (but you can if you want). They don't recoil or get anything like hot enough. The posts regarding barrel touching the 'wood' and free floating is valid, but nothing to do with bedding. Bedding won't do any harm, just no good either. AndyF
  10. andyf
    Cats are 'rubbish' things really, soft and easy to kill, but they won't sit about while you pick them off one at a time. If it's safe, use your .22RF with a moderator from a well concealed spot you should be able to mop-up the easy one's, maybe it will take a few trips to thin them out, and anyway I guess the farmer will want a few left to keep the rats etc at bay? Just watch out with the RF as it's a bit 'near the edge' shooting in and around a farmyard, ricochets and damage to the buildings could be the least of your worries, make sure no farm stock or even worse farm workers are about
  11. andyf
    Hi: I've got an A Bolt in .270Win, I fitted a Timney spring in mine, much better (and cheap enough). Also have a Heym a Ruger and a Sako, couldn't choose between them really as they are for different jobs. But my Browning is a 'keeper'. AndyF
  12. andyf
    Hi: I weigh all my powder charges individually with a digital RCBS scale and a trickler, I throw under deliberately then 'top up' to the correct amount. Volume though is ok, but its a bit cruder, shotshell loaders all use a form of volume measure as I think the precision of rifle ammo is not required for shotshells. Anyway as a starter you can't go wrong with the Lee dipper set, I used to use the closest 'under' dipper to start my charge in the scale pan then use the trickler to get it right, nowdays I use an RCBS powder measure just because it's quicker and easier to use. AndyF
  13. andyf
    Be aware just because someone else shot there in the past (or even now) does not mean it has been inspected, it could be he or they had an 'open' FAC therefore the land wouldn't be checked. AndyF
  14. andyf
    .22 RF Sako (vermin and stones that ask to be shot) 22.250 Ruger #1(Fox) 270 Browning A Bolt (Deer) 7x57 Heym (Deer) That's the ones I've got above, and very nice they are, BUT Then another because 'I just would want one a '38 Special' lever action with iron sights, and a long tube mag (Steel swinger targets, that go 'clang') Oh yes please. AndyF
  15. andyf
    Does Valkyrie do the same spring kit for the 'old' Finnfire rifle, (I have a Finnfire Varmint) the action looks the same as the new Quad? If so do you have an email of phone? AndyF
  16. andyf
    Reloading is not really a cost saving exercise, even if you get a very simple kit to start with, as the components are not bought in quantity's that make say 20-30 rounds, powder costs typically £40 a tub, bullets £20-30 a 100, primers are usually bought in a 1,000 brick £40+, brass at around £30-50 a 100, of course it depends on the calibre but the above already is well past £200. But the real advantage is making cartridges that are tailored to your rifle(s). Also you can load combinations of bullet/powder/ primer/brass that are simply not available anywhere. Also the really basic kit i
  17. andyf
    Hi; All my scopes (5 of them)are Leupold variables, all of them are left permanently set on x6 or x8. No need for high mag for my hunting, never really shoot at anything much past 150 yards. AndyF
  18. andyf
    Hi: I my experience. Either should not be a problem, the centrefire 'grant' is the hurdle, and it sounds like you are past that. Many years ago I had a .22RF and a 22.250, when I got some ground with Deer + a permission to shoot them, on asking the D&C force said 'if I wanted' I could change to a Deer legal calibre and give up the 22.250 as a 'no charge 'variation, so as I didn't want to spend loads on a new scope etc as well as a new rifle, I did that, and I got a .270 (hardly a traditional Fox calibre). I've since got another 22.250 and a 7x57 in addition to the other 2 rif
  19. andyf
    Be very careful with richochet's, shallow angle shots along the ground at a soft target like a pigeon will have them 'pinging' off all over the place. But if your happy with the ground your on carry on, I think you'll get fed up before the dog does. AndyF
  20. andyf
    The 'Brooks' type trigger kit is easy to fit yourself, but only if your a bit handy and have some tools. If your the type of guy who stands behind the crash barrier with your hazards on waiting for a AA cos you can't change the wheel on your car then it's not for you! I used the lightest spring and the second thickest bush on my old 17hmr American, it was so much lighter and with virtually no 'slack' in the first stage, very much better than 'factory'. Any gun shop will do this for you for a few ££, but they will probably go on the 'heavy' side for their own peace of mind, if your gettin
  21. andyf
    Hi: Try www.uttings.co.uk they sell the alumina flip ups. I recently bought a leather muzzle cover for my Heym stalking rifle from 'Sutter' in Germany by mail order, and I got there in the end, I had to ask them for a paypal invoice as the webpage didn't like my UK debit card. Uttings are quite good and responsive, maybe telephone them if the internet doesn't want to 'play'? I have Alumina flip ups on 3 different scopes and they are the best. AndyF
  22. andyf
    The BRNO Mod2 deserves it's fine reputation, I had one from new for over 15 years and it was exceptionally accurate and never once had any sort of problem ever. I only traded it when I bought a Sako because I didn't think 'they' would let me have two. (I know better now but it's too late). Getting the barrel cut down is a good idea, 16" is plenty 14" is short enough, also a 'brooks' trigger kit (or the many clones) will further improve an already top hole rifle. My Sako Finnfire Varmint 16" is very good, but it is honestly no better than the Mod2, and it is heavier. AndyF
  23. andyf
    Hi: 17HMR is not the best for Fox, it's not the worst either, I had a 17 for a couple of years, and my experience on Fox was not that great, however I was used to a centrefire by then and there is no comparison. But as long as the range is limited to 'close enough' for head shots the 17 and even the 22rf for that matter are fine. As for now, shoot Foxes with your 17, then at the 'correct' time get a .223 a 22.250 or a .243 and start doing it the 'best' way. AndyF
  24. andyf
    Hi: This all sounds a bit complicated to me? Firstly when the mounts are nipped into the dovetails they should be identical in height along the barrel axis as that's how they are made! Next with the scope dropped into the mounts lightly fit one top strap, now with the bases loose enough to be slid in the dovetails, and the scope also loose in the single mount, move the mounts and scope until you achieve a comfortable head position and correct eye relief on the sight picture. It's best to do this standing in a rest, as your head position changes from standing to sitting and I presume you w
  25. andyf
    Hi: I'm in the BASC, have been since the late 1970's (WAGBI days), I stick with them because they are the biggest and most widely known, that said (luckily) I've never had cause to 'test' the insurance cover so I have no idea how that would pan out if the worst happened. My pheasant syndicate requires insurance as a condition of membership, most are in the BASC, but some have it from the gamekeepers and beaters organisation (sorry don't know the 'proper' title), and some the Countryside Alliance, either way the costs are fairly 'ballpark' but BASC is the most expensive. But you get other
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