Mr_Logic
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Everything posted by Mr_Logic
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I use Lee dies for 223 and .308; they produce pretty accurate stuff. Can't compare with Redding as I only have Redding dies in 243, but they also work well.
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You will need a fast powder to get the best out of your rifle. I reload for a Remington SPS Tactical, 20 inch barrel too, and I lose a lot of velocity sadly. Vit's site has info for all their powders, just under max of N130 with a 55 Nosler worked pretty well for me in terms of accuracy, bit slow, but still kills stuff OK!
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You will need: Press dies scale powder dispenser of some sort powder trickler ideally a decent level bench to work on Plus other bits that aren't leaping into my mind right now. You will save some money reloading 223, I can load for about the same price as Prvi, and it shoots a LOT better! It's also a very forgiving calibre - pretty much anything works, just might not work well... I wouldn't worry about the surplus stuff, be it Wolf or Barnaul or whatever - it's all pretty shite to be honest! American Eagle is a good factory load if you are looking for cheap though,
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Well, I got the same thing with 43 grains. Very odd! Tried some of Deker's factory Prvi, that worked OK but didn't shoot straight (as expected). Now trying some other powders etc, see what happens there...
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I was looking at the Chargemaster - looks a good bit of kit, how do you find it?
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Children! I think you're only disagreeing by a bit, let's leave it?
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Thanks Snap - if you see something... I am committed to .308, got everything I need for it, like F/TR as a discipline, and I like the .308's barrel life! Is it the best long range rifle calibre? Nope, but it's a level playing field.
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I have a Ruger M77 VT in .308, which I have used for target bashing for about a year and really don't like. However, the other half does like it, so I will set it up for her. Which means I need a rifle for shooting targets up to and including 1000 yards. I know I should buy a Savage F/TR or proper target rifle. But I don't have the money, not by a long shot, and not all my target work is that far out (most isn't) Given that other half will want to be on an almost level footing (she's not having the Nightforce, full stop!) I need to get my mitts on a heavy barrel varmint rifle.
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I have a set of Lyman beam scales, very lightweight and functional I guess, but not ideal in the slightest. HZ if you are selling yours, let me know
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43 gr was my next attempt anyway, but thanks for the info HZ - most useful. I was expecting to have to change the load, but the original batch worked OK which is what's had me puzzled. No issues chambering the rounds, powder charges checked each time with the scale - chances are it was that, then. Did zero before use and used very gently, but my setup isn't ideal in terms of space and level surfaces - my bin cupboard with modified shelving. Best I can do in the tiny little house I've got sadly. Does anyone make a bloody heavy scale that absolutely won't ever move unless purposely moved
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This is true. Remington like to push their TriNyte coating, there was a picture on their website of 'stainless' barrels left in saltwater for a test - of course only theirs was pretty much rust-free, but it did make a point.
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Thanks Snap, replies below... 1. Brass is the same - the original and new batches were both in PPU. 2. Originally they were seated to the same OAL, 2.700. Both batches were originally made with the same OAL and tested. The Winchester had a long throat, so I have reduced to 2.645 to try, but same issue. 3. Full length sizing only, I only have a full length sizing die. 4. Not changed any. 5. They're a pain, as they are light and my work surface rubbish, but I have checked as much as possible, any variance only +/- 0.1 gr 6. That's what I thought. My only worry was that th
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Right then... Hopefully a quick one but something tells me it'll be a pain! I have a load for the .243 which is 80gr SBT over 44 gr H414, PPU brass, CCI200 primer. It was fine in my Winchester, and the last few of that batch were OK in my new Howa. I made a new batch, same load, and now I get flat primers and I even had to hammer out a case from the breech. Everything was the same, but I have changed case tumbling media from corn to walnut as that's what was in stock. I have verified that the cases didn't have any crud in them - cleaned out primer pockets and give a good blow t
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England regs apply to Wales; Scotland 223 is legal on roe.
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I don't specialise in shooting deer, no. Too many other things to shoot at, but I certainly do have times when I am out specifically for deer, but I haven't found a problem by being careful with such bullets.
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Because the rifle is setup for long range fox, and I shoot only roe deer. So funnily enough, I can't be arsed with a round that'll stop a red, as I'm not shooting reds. Quite happy with neck shots, easy enough target at under 200 yards unless it's a howling gale or right at the edge of legal shooting light.
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I agree you can get a .222 nice and cheap, why the other day I saw a brand new Tikka T3 for about 500 notes, not getting that in 223 for that money!
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I've shot several roe with varmint bullets, none of them have been as mangled as that one, not even the one I hit with 58gr V-max. There was certainly heavy damage, but not like that! Still, that's why I stick with neck shots where possible if I have a varmint-type bullet loaded in the 243.
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But here's a thing, only improvement is going to be higher and more consistent velocity, and the drop-off is still similar to the 30gr HP, so IMHO the 40gr is still the best. I did read somewhere of a magazine's test of this stuff, they found the same conclusion.
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I have an SPS Tactical in 223, which shoots all kind of ammunition to better than half inch at 100 yards. All I did was put a rifle basix trigger in it, the rest is factory. I passed on a Remington in 243 today in favour of a Howa, which I've been out testing and its first group is about 3/4 inch, in fog at night in a cold wet field, so the best I would think is yet to come!
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we could say that about all rifles ttho. someone says get 22/250 its better then 223. and then someone says get 243 its better then 22/250. then get a 260 its better then 243 and so on. i like some of the older 222 rifles because they are built to very high spec. and the rifles on the marlket now build wise dont compare. Not my point, if we talk in terms of power then we should all be using 120mm depleted uranium rounds on rabbits... The .222/.223 debate is a specific niche, because the power and powder requirements of the calibres are so similar. There is no situation when one
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We really need BASC or someone to be dealing with tabloid nonsense, this crap gets me incredibly irate. Ultimately, they're foxes - they are a pest, which is why they are shot!
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The 222/223 debate has been done to death. No issues with either, but if I was buying new I would get a 223, because it's just as accurate and has a little bit more speed and grunt. Only a little bit, but why get the slightly inferior one?!
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Don't belive the Yanks. My Federals did at least that, and had no issues with a max load of N130 and a 50gr Blitzking. In some rifles that generates pressure signs - my CZ hates it to the point where during my testing it jammed up so much that extraction was by cleaning rod from the muzzle! However, in my Remington they shot fine with no issues at all so I used them in there for a while. Cases were 100% OK.
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But then, so is 223...