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Mr_Logic

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Everything posted by Mr_Logic

  1. Quite simply, whatever I have with me at the time! If I am out for fox, the rifle will depend on the land, not on the species. In the same vein, if I was rabbiting but could get no closer than 400 yards, I'd be shooting the 243 at the bunnies. All depends on the land - do you have neighbours who don't like gunfire? Is there a built-up area nearby? How big is the land? Is it flat? Are there long shots? Will you be reloading for the rifle? Those are the questions - Charlie can be killed with pretty much anything, so the other factors come into play. I have Hornet, 223, 243 as my
  2. [note: no intentionally aimed directly at Mr_logic] It's a funny old world, not so long ago people took pride in killing humanely and cleanly. These days it seems in vogue to blow the animals to kingdom come, take photos of the blood bath and promote your skills as an expert animal demolition specialist all over tinernet. As a group we wonder why the government, police and animal rights groups have twitchy fingers. I and most other shooting folk can understand that the animals were killed quickly but to the casual on looker, it must look horrific and to any law enforcement personnel their
  3. Agreed - demo is worth lots! 223 is a great calibre to reload for - it's incredibly easy to reload, and is very versatile in terms of powders and bullets that will produce decent results. As ever, tweaking is needed to get it right. My CZ loves 50gr bullets of either BlitzKing or Vmax variety (not tried 50gr Noslers, I suspect it would shoot them too). I run 27.5gr H4895 behind that for a muzzle velocity of about 3,400 fps, and the groups are tiny - I had 4 into about .2 the other day. When trying new loads, always a good idea to work up to max loads - some are OK, some are distin
  4. Both of you with cannons - next time you put an almighty hole in a fox with it, post the picture - should be worthy of a chuckle!
  5. Personally safe rifle handling has rules, like always keeping your muzzle pointing in a safe direction. Safety really isn't needed when loading, unloading, just follow the rules. Ultimately it IS personal preference if it worries you or not, doesn't bother me in the slightest.
  6. 223 is a short action, in terms of other bits it's BDL - hinged floorplate rather than blind box.
  7. Unless I plan to eat the animal in question, I like a bloody great mess - it means you're sure it was humane!
  8. CZ is a good make, as is Tikka, as is Remington, as is Howa.... Lots to choose from. Chances are, you won't go wrong with anything. CZ - Accurate as anything, I've had issues getting scopes on there as the action is dovetail-only, and has a high bolt lift. This means eye relief is tricky with a Leupold, and the eyebell of scopes (Nikon) can be a pain. But it was supremely cheap, shoots straight, and is horrendously lightweight at under 6lbs, naked. (I have the American Synthetic, the normal American is a tad heavier, but not much) Howa - All the ones I've had have been shooters
  9. It's pretty normal for deer to run a distance, whatever the bullet, so if you're putting them in the right place I wouldn't worry. If you're shooting deer with the 243, then a 90BT or above is about right - below is designed for fox & varmint. Without really going there, they do work well on the smaller deer, but you will have meat damage unless you neck or head shoot. Therefore, if the rifle is just shooting deer, use a deer bullet. I've found the Hornady 95 SST is accurate with sufficient but not excessive expansion. Certainly the 3 does I shot the other week were not overly
  10. The MTC is definitely better optically than the Nikko, but against a Falcon it loses - Falcon has comparable glass and better adjustments. And it's imported by a proper company, too.
  11. Hmmm... Maybe I will, just to see... Generally yes, most RFDs will let you take stuff outside to have a look-see, but it is difficult buying a scope. It's one of those areas where, by and large, you get what you pay for. So if it's cheap, 9/10 it's rubbish. On a 22 LR, or HMR, you don't need a lot. Bushnell 3200 series, Nikon Buckmaster/Fieldmaster, Leupold VX-II will all work nicely.
  12. I have compared them to my VX-IIIs. VX-III is better, but not by much, and it was a 50mm front on the Leupold and 42 on the Nikon One area where they are destroyed by Leupold is adjustment range - 40-odd MOA on the Nikon, 95+ on the Leupold, but I doubt that will be an issue for Hornet - it was for me as some of the rifles go to 1000 yards.
  13. 30-06, I would have said a 180gr Nosler Accubond would work nicely - they are designed for use on larger game than deer so expansion should be that bit slower - that's what the blurb says so if it was me I'd try them, since accuracy is likely to be first rate. WHat are you shooting with your 243? Deer or fox?
  14. Yep, practice does it alright. When you come to optics, a 4-16x50 Viper is about the minimum you should be looking at in terms of quality. Personally I think there are better scopes at that price point, too. Careful choice is needed there as well.
  15. Ballistic tip varmint fragments, the hunting stuff less so, at least so they tell me - just about to load my first batch of BT deer bullets. For fox, BTs are about as good as you'll get, though V-max and Blitzkings are both excellent bullets. SPs work well on deer but aren't the most accurate - Nosler do the accubond and partition, which have less expansion than the BT - they will likely be more accurate. Of course, all this depends on your rifle - Deker's rifles love cheap crap ammo, and mine hate it. THis is a very broad and annoying trend, and it carries across about 12 rifles b
  16. I had a 4-16x42 Monarch for a day or so. Only sent it back because it didn't fit on my CZ527 due to the high bolt lift. Optically very good, would recommend. Can't comment on tracking etc as I didn't get to zero
  17. You need to fill in the whole form but you don't need to do the referee thing unless it's an actual renewal of the FAC. If you can show that you are likely to be invited onto other land then I can't see why they wouldn't open up the condition on your FAC - clearly you are already doing a lot of shooting so it's reasonable that you would want to shoot at other places too. Personally speaking, I think this business of only allowing you to shoot on a single piece of land is ridiculous. You are either safe to be entrusted with a firearm or you aren't. Why does it matter what piece of land you
  18. Parents and other half split the bill on some new Leupold binos, very useful they will be too. I bought myself a Tikka T3 Varmint in .308 just before Xmas too...
  19. Interesting topic, though please can you correct the apostrophe in the title - should be heroes, since it's a plural, not a possessive.
  20. Not sure what you're driving at here? How is this relevant to the post? My thoughts on worrying about the more exotic calibres are well documented, but I am enjoying this thread - lots of useful info...
  21. I use N130 with my CZ, max load is distinctly warm - AFAIK 24.7gr? I'd use a grain under (with a 50gr v-max). Max load got me to 3500fps, and amazing accuracy too, but with pressure signs sadly.
  22. When I did my degree, the very first thing they told us - 'absence of evidence is not evidence of absence'. This is the case here. Ultimately, the main rule of ammo that I, and those I've ever known, was brought up with is that you use the ammo which is for the calibre stamped on the barrel. Personally, if there is any doubt (there is) as to the safety of something like that, I'll let someone else do it. I'd consider using 5.56 in my .223s IF someone else put about a thousand rounds through both of them and it all worked well. Then I'd want to know how it grouped, and if that w
  23. As they say in the trade ... whatever. if you want to advocate doing what is warned about by gun manufacturers, SAAMI, and ammo manufacturers, go right ahead. You'll probably be OK - there are good tolerances in most firearms and you will likely stay lucky. Hopefully we won't read about when you stop being lucky. Me, I'll stick to 223 in a 223, and I will load it to get accuracy and firearm life, as that's the way to get the best out of the guns I spent my hard-earned on. I think you're being bloody stupid, and nothing will change that opinion, so we will agree to disagree.
  24. JonathanL, do stop talking crap, there's a good chap. Proof ammo will not develop 100,000 CUP in a .223, that's about twice chamber pressure and pretty damn hard to achieve (is this even possible?)? In any event, proof ammo is for one round - then it's stamped and job done. Much more risk of something blowing up if the abuse is prolonged. Regarding SAAMI specs - they're the standard for the round. So if you ask a 223 to shoot 223 ammo, then it should be within SAAMI specs and thus it will work as that's what it's manufactured for. If you ask any rifle to use 5.56, it's way over 22
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