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stillair1

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Everything posted by stillair1

  1. In hindsight would go for something that can be stripped and or is of stainless construction. I would also consider what size you are putting on the end especially if it is a light weight barrel as they do affect the balance.
  2. The short answer is both rounds can bounce so do not rely on the hmr pill to fragment on impact. Hmr rounds are harder to hear ricochet imo due to the noise in the shooter's ear. There are segmented .22lr rounds which are supposed to break into three pieces on impact. Not used them myself so I won't comment on them.
  3. It may take a while to feel improvement, mine improved steadily over a year, though being an hmr I was not plinking too many rounds, If its not too your liking after you have sorted the best ammo with a few boxes through it, then a kit might be in order.
  4. Hi the trigger on my cz improved with use so don't rush out to get a kit like I did. Also don't be tempted to fit the lightest spring initially for field work, mine was dangerously light with it. I fitted the next strongest one, but even that one needed to be backed off on the adjustment as the trigger bedded in. Do a butt drop test to check that trigger is safe if you tinker. I would also check for any poi change when you change the mag on the scope, I found this on an old scope last week.
  5. bushnell legends were on offer for that money a little while ago. what ever you get check that the poi does not shift on a zoom scope.I found one in my collection that does!
  6. Hi you may find the Winchesters tighten up further with a box through the rifle. Eley subs would be another to try with the cz. The size of the hollow point and the composition of the lead does seem to effect stopping power even though most rounds zip through with a side on shot. One of the most accurate rounds through my rifles was the lapua hp sub. Unfortunately they were also the least effective on upper body shots for me probably due to a small hp cavity.
  7. Hi I would be cautious using stingers as the case length is a smidge longer than .22lr iirc . Check that the cases fit in the chamber without damage. In some rifles the chambers are tight length wise and the manufacturers warn of using this ammo. Personally I had one box of these years ago, used a few and disposed of the rest.
  8. .22lr sub good to 100yd, hmr 150yds and beyond. Both richocet, the .22lr more so.
  9. In those lengths I doubt there would be much difference in velocity, maybe a 100fps in hmr. .22lr sub is fully burnt in under 14" iirc. Where you will gain in a longer tube is in stability off a bipod due to the weight, though this is more marked when you compare a 14" with a 22" tube. Middle ground a 16" tube will do it all. Variation in barrel accuracy, and ammunition is more of an overiding factor than length in rf imo
  10. I found them to be very accurate, but they did not stop rabbits as well when compared to eley.
  11. Do you take the mod off when sticking it in the cabinet.Ideally you should, however it maybe a case that the mod is not seating right on the thread and is in a slightly different position each time it is remounted. Try it by leaving it on over night once zeroed and compare the next outing. Seen the same thing on my mates 1517 with a jls end can. Zeroed it one day the next it was out. It turned out to be an issue with unscrewing the mod when storing. Left the mod on, zero remained.
  12. I picked up a mint one careful owner sako 75vls for £600. It might be worth adding a mod at a later date, and spending the budget on a better rifle as a mod for a .223 can easily eat up £200 +.
  13. After cleaning how many rounds do you need to fire through it to restore accracy ? Mine gets cleaned if shot, finished with an oiled patch to store . Then de-oiled with an alcohol patch and a couple of dry ones and it shoots to poi from round one.I would not want it any other way myself , it would be a pita to have to bring back on zero every outing, by which time anything to shoot would have moved on around my way.
  14. Hi as above I would use off a bag rest or bipod and bag rest. Bin that rubbery thing too, if it's hitting your face and making you flinch. By the sound of it your not getting a consistent sight picture/ cheek weld. Perhaps move the scope or raise the cheek piece with one of those rap around comb raisers. Another thing is don't keep walking too and from the target between rounds it will raise your heart beat. Finally you don't say what scope you have fitted. Unfortunately some scopes don't cut it, the build
  15. To the op I use a .223 1-12 twist with a T8 mod and 4-16x scope usually set between 6-10 mag, 40 or 50gn tipped ammo. The mod makes the rifle sweeter to shoot though you do feel the weight up front freehand.
  16. If the sunlight is low in the sky then sheild that side.
  17. I'll recomend the cz and sako quad varmint, two rifles at different cost in the market. Both shoot well. What I would say is don't skimp on the mounts with ten bob specials. The last thing you need with an hmr is mounts that are squiffy to the bore.
  18. I'm sure Norman Clarkes have one piece carbon rods, delrin type bore guides etc.
  19. If you have a requirement for say .22lr and hmr as well as fac air. Then I would advise putting in for all of them at you initial application providing you have the funds to purchase in the 5yr period. The reason being it'll only cost you the same fee at grant or renewal, but if you decide at a later date then it'll be another £26 for a variation. In addition there would be a time delay as each variation would require a visit by your feo and this can take anything upto and beyond 3months depending o
  20. I'm not saying 16gn at 25ftlb is no good Deker, just that it's possible to run the 16gn quicker whilst retaining accuracy. If you read my first post it says "16/18gn jsb variants" which I take to include all the rebadged stuff. Apparently Moxy has found accupells not so good either at 25ftlb in his setup, so I'm not talking complete tosh. I don't rely on chairgunner either, just real world time on cardboard To the original poster Adrian, my advice is buyer beware s/h fac air, there are a lot of dogs out there especially rapids that
  21. Regarding the original post I would source and trial a selection of good quality round nose pellets from the makers of HN,JSB,Crosman in the 14gn weight range as these are most likely to give the best accuracy and performance. It maybe the set up you have is not upto the job, but only time and practise on the card will tell.
  22. Is this a wind up...... .... 25ft lb is too hot for 14g and too low for 16+g pellets! And the advantage of FAC is to flatten the trajectory? Sorry typo error, it should read fac air. My experience using fac air comes from over 25yrs using hw80's, early daystate midas, eliminators in .20/.22 and laterly fac rapids in .177 and .22 cal. The 14gn .22 pellets tend to go inaccurate much past 20 ftlb. You may find a barrel that will run them at 25/30ftlb straight, but in my experiences it'll be very lucky. So we are left with three main contenders in .22. These being barrcudas at 21g
  23. Why limit yourself at 25ftlb in .22, your in middle ground. Probably too hot for 14gn pellets unless you are very lucky, too low for 16+gn pellets. The advantage of fac air is to flattern the trajectory. A rapid running at 30-33ftlb will give you a better setup and make the most of a jsb 16gn or 18gn variants.
  24. I will be very interested to hear your report on the 3-12x44 swat and mamba lite since I have also just bought a Challenger with DSA. I have been very impressed with the unit so far. I am only using it at short range for rats and have the Pulsar 805 illuminator which for fairly short ranges of less than 50 yards seems to be great. I have not had any problems with the rearward eye position and found that I did not need to move the scope forward at all. WIth the DSA being so easy to remove I have a combination that I can use in daylight and at night. My scope does not have side parallax
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