Matt
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Everything posted by Matt
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Why does yer bag need to be cammo? When you put it down you'll never find it again!!!!!! I've never seen a well camo'd bag.....
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In my experience, the best tunnels are those made from materials you have found nearby. If the bricks are available - use them! There's alot of work to be made for yourself making complicated wooden boxes. Personally, in that kind of situation, I prefer the AF box, into which you can slot a kness break back. I'm going to try the modified victors though, because I think they look bloody good!
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Barrettine are only in Bristol, and providing you can produce a certificate of competence, I'm sure there would be no problem. Failing that, as previously advised, contact Certis (the manufacturer) and ask them for your nearest stockist. If you need a name at Certis, try Helen (tell her Matt says hello!).
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It has to go by specialist courier as its a part one poison. You cannot buy it without proof of training, and its use is restricted to trained and competent persons. You will struggle to find the old type flasks now anyway; the adaptor is free of charge for the new type. Try contacting Certis to find your nearest supplier.
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pest control question . how much for gassing
Matt replied to a topic in Snaring, Trapping & Pest Control
That sounds like a fair price. Roughly how many holes? That price should include at least one follow up visit as well. -
A very interesting site: http://cheetah.webtribe.net/~animadversion/
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http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/index...t=0&start=0 Thats a good starting point.
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There's some interesting stuff coming out here. Firstly, there is a very high turnover of staff within the industry as a whole, and therefore, there are always jobs available. I suffered from a high turnover of staff up until about a year ago, for various reasons; but these days its very low. We now have one of the highest levels of qualification in the industry (85% of my technicians have the RSPH level 2, or equivelent), which is due solely to us investing a shit load of money into training. I get quite annoyed when technicians join us from other companies, who have several years e
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I always give potential newbies the same piece of advice: Work for one of the big boys first, they will train you, pay you, and most of all, give you experience. I didn't, and I've regretted it ever since. It took me twelve hard years to make a living, and then I had too much work for one, and not enough for two. I took the easy way out, and sold up. I now work for a multinational, and wish I'd done things the other way around. Training doesn't stop at the RSPH level 2 - thats just an entry level qualification. Training is an on-going commitment, that, these days, you just can'
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Fair point John. I stand corrected.
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I cannot believe that you guys are giving advice on how to kill protected species. I can just see the anti headline: "Bloodsports enthusiasts boast about killing protected birds". Are you sure we should be having this discussion?
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The best thing to do is call in a professional. When I say professional, I mean someone who is a member of either BPCA or NPTA or both. Its all very well to try and do a bit of DIY pest control, but when it comes to the safety of your family and pets, there is no point in taking chances. A professional should be able to identify the source of the infestation, advice on prevention and treat the mice all for a reasonable price.
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What about 'The Potfilla'???
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If any of you 'birdboys' are interested in doing some subcontract hawking, drop me a pm. We get a few jobs in. ******Please let me know where you are based in any PM you send******* I am also happy to give some informal advice to anyone who wants to get into professional pest control. Kind regards Matt
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I'm not a fan of the 'sliding door' - its slooooooow. I like the simple type as used by MAFF for badgers. I demonstrated a really good fold up type trap on the Paragon/NGO stand at the Midland three years ago. For a trigger, use garden string in a 'coathanger' type shape. Whichever way the target pulls or pushes the string, the door drops with the locking door close behind. Dispatch should be with .22R/F or .410 shotgun. Next time I'm down 'home' I'll try and get a picture of the trap and trigger. Its simple, effective and cheap. No springs to wear out, and a fast, secure acti
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Sorry Davy, this is a full on pest control contract, and as such I cant just invite people along for sport as a general rule. I had to visit last night to do a night inspection, and the farmer specifically asked me to shoot any rats I could. From my point of view, its a few less rats eating bait so all good. I asked fishfish along because he lives on my doorstep, and I'm always grateful for the help. Nothing personal Davy, I'm sure you understand. As a point of interest, I re-visited site this morning, and the victim pictured above was half eaten (by other rats).
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You cant go far wrong with Light Sussex. If you use a RIR cock bird, you will have sex-linked chicks. The brown (female) offspring are good layers, and the white (male) are ok table birds. We used to get a good 2-3 laying seasons out of our pure breeds - the hybrid layers are OK for a season, then they seem to burn out. If you dont want to go down the pure breed route, a few warrens/bovans will give you lots of eggs, and table birds are cheap (excuse the pun) as day olds, and reach killing weight quickly. The other option is off lay free range birds off poultry farmers. There
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I realise that most farmers are not going to pay that kind of money for something which they can get done for free. The point I'm trying to make is that you need to work out your operating costs. If it is going to cost you (lets use some easy numbers) 100k per year to operate, and you can work for 200 days each year, that gives you a cost of £500 per day. If you do an average of 4 hours per day (excluding travelling, paperwork etc) that gives you a price of £125 per hour based on four hours per day. You can break that down further by charging £500 for a whole days work (like a ferret
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I realise that most farmers are not going to pay that kind of money for something which they can get done for free. The point I'm trying to make is that you need to work out your operating costs. If it is going to cost you (lets use some easy numbers) 100k per year to operate, and you can work for 200 days each year, that gives you a cost of £500 per day. If you do an average of 4 hours per day (excluding travelling, paperwork etc) that gives you a price of £125 per hour based on four hours per day. You can break that down further by charging £500 for a whole days work (like a ferret
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£15 per hour? How the hell does anyone survive on that with diesel at £1.12 per litre, insurance at £300+ and 100% loading on van insurance? If you want to know what to charge, its easy. Work out what it will actually cost you to work, add on what you need to earn, then divide that by the number of actual chargable hours you can work in a day. Don't forget that you will be lucky to actually work four hours a day by the time you have driven to the jobs, done the paperwork, swept out the store, etc etc. The all day ferretting and proofing jobs are not the norm; most of your jobs will
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Dont forget training, organisation membership etc. Its too easy to just start out thinking its an easy living...........
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What sort of bait do you use then Martin?
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I use a third of a dried maize cob wired above the treadle plate. That way it moves freely and they tend to land on the plate while trying to feed, and cant nick the bait through the bars. I have known some strange baits used, depending on the circumstances. One of my lads caught three using 'Quavers'. Its horses for courses I suppose.
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I've been to boxing day meets down west where there were several thousand people attending fish. They usually do some sort of headcount, so I expect the numbers are fairly accurate.
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Its a bit too clickey for my liking.....