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Luckee legs

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Everything posted by Luckee legs

  1. Another frontline user.. it's the best on ticks although if you can see them I pull them out. It's inevitable ferrets will bring a lot of fleas back from a day out rabbiting. I only treat mine about once a month in season and not at all in summer. By the time you get home the fleas wlll have fed and later will drop off into bedding. For me It's really important to clean bedding chambers and boxes about 24 -48 hours after ferreting. It's a simple disinfectant wipe into corners and swap straw / wash fleece
  2. In this baking hit weather (still in east Anglia) Mine have never been as tolerant of misting with water as now. And I learnt something new?, never tried ping pong balls as a toy for them ?
  3. I have ramps, work fine although if fixed permanently they make cleaning difficult. Ferrets only take one step on them so as someone said , maybe just a hole that can be covered and a small step screwed into side. I find ferrets don't always get on so definitely need to be able to separate. A friend used corrugated soil pipe to connect to outside play area and that worked well
  4. Hi to all, I worked on parasite control in late 1990s. There's not many actives that control ticks (most insecticide modes of action kill adult fleas). Flea eggs in your house or dog bed need vacuuming and for a spray, suffocation with an oil would work, residual insecticide or an insect growth regulator would kill them as they emerge. For ticks the standout active is fipronil. When I lived in Essex and it was easy to booze cruise, I bought fipronil sprays in French hypermarkets. They seem to have less regulation on OTC vet products. It's a stable active so good for 2 to 3 years in the pack.
  5. My take is we can pay for vet advice (and I do) but you don't have to follow it to £1000s . i've had success with a topically applied cream that burns into the corn, although these are discrete threads into the foot, white cap on surface, very deep and will crack and start to bleed. I'd like to know someone who had success with surgery before trying that on a corn. From the photo it's a big area so agree with some comments above, may be an injury. Good luck. The main problem I found with these types of injuries is finding a boot that fits and will stay on ?.
  6. Most years one of my Jill's suffers severe hair loss, the tail is the focus of loss and I don't associate it with adrenal cancer. Unless the Jill is clearly showing illness symptoms she's likely to regrow that hair in the autumn. In fact I have had a Jill who was obviously showing early cancer symptoms lose almost all her hair and regrow it completely before she died.
  7. can only do your best. Only thing I'd add to that is a garden umbrella for extra shade. I'd like to be super confident and say as I've never lost a ferret due to heat it will be fine, but it's never been this hot. Difficult for an animal that in the wild js resting up underground in the day and would probably be at 15C.
  8. Hi all, I am on holiday camping in the new forest, we haven't seen a rabbit in 2 days although there's lots of scrapes and old poo visible. Rabbit numbers in Thetford forest near me have crashed due to VHD in last few years, has the same happened here?
  9. In East Anglia Cereal crops are 7 to 10 days earlier than usual, although dying on their arse with lack of water. Ground is rock hard. With high crop prices expect drilling of autumn crops to be earlier than usual if soil moisture allows. Plenty of Hares visible, rabbit numbers are variable around me
  10. Very old school, landline only. 01142851372 . Worth meeting him at a country show, Mick has a stand at a few with a decent selection of nets traps etc.
  11. Don't leave her too long, it's bloody frustrating and more money (unless it's likely the vet made a mistake) but the risk of Anemia and death from a long season is real. I lost a very good Jill waiting too long deciding on a follow up jab and it's a grim end
  12. Try Mick Dadd. He fixed mine, cost depends on what needs fixing and return postage, more than £25 but it was back working in 10 days
  13. If the vulva is decreasing in size I'd wait a few more days. There are a couple of reasons why Jill jabs fail, assuming dose calculated correctly; Ive found vets are often nervous of ferrets and may not give a well targeted injection, IMO its up to us to reassure vet and agree how to hold them before the jab. One issue that you need to be aware of is the hormone is not very stable once the vial is opened and declines in effect over time even in the fridge. Old stock that's opened may not work well enough. However, although I've had to take ferrets back for a re jab they came out of seaso, just
  14. Same as Welsh hunter. I've used paper,straw hay and fleece over the years, nothing is perfect. The only bedding I don't use now is paper because of problems you describe and in winter it picks up moisture, just doesn't have thermal properties of everything else. I also switch to dry food from June until I start ferreting again. They do need a lot of water when on dry food but they look good on it.
  15. Completely agree ?, a few times a day makes handling normal and one at a time allows focus on careful handling. The nervous one may bite out of fear. One thing I've changed over the years is how I respond to biting. I used to flick them on the nose but eventually realised that an adult human can put a lot of force into that, with the size of a ferret it's like hitting someone in the face with a sleeper ?. Gentle flicks ok, make it hard for them to grab skin and I keep a squeey bottle of lemon juice to put on my knuckles, most really don't like that and quickly quit biting good luck
  16. Hi all, on a run of hot weather in East Anglia right now and my ferrets keep a low profile when temperatures are above 25C. To keep life tolerable for them I put freezer packs wrapped in old tea towels in sleeping areas and use a garden umbrella for some additional shade. How do others deal with hot weather?
  17. Agree with previous comments, you are doing the right thing and there's no rush. Be prepared that it may always be a little tempestuous between them. Ferrets don't always click. I prefer to get kits in pairs so they have always have a companion. Just to be sure the kit is 9 weeks as she should be 3 weeks past weaning completely off mums milk . And Working backwards that's from a mating date in late February which is pretty early IMO. She might be younger, Two of my current Jill's were rescues at about 6 weeks of age, they were very needy for contact, human or ferret. Good luck, hopefully with
  18. I take mine to the vet and I got my first ferrets in 1978... It only takes a few ferret keepers to use a vet practice for the vets to learn about them so it's a win win. I'm fortunate to have a private vet practice near me and they are pragmatic, £22 to get in the door, meds on top but are reasonable and when I don't have a vasectomised hob I pay for a bottle of the Jill jab hormone and they store it. I've seen enough cancer symptoms I don't go for that but other injuries are well worth while. About one a year gets an abcess in the mouth or throat from eating bone, there's also the occasional
  19. Not the same but similar stuff "duck bites" I use with my whippet pup, it is crack cocaine for them and really gets him paying attention. Top stuff is dehydrated liver which is very cost effective if you have the machine (stinks house out in the oven) but my dehydrator blew up so I've been using either expiry date sliced meat from our village coop, sadly cost of living crisis makes that a bun fight to get, so this is a backup for training only. Other times I use cheap wheat based treats or I'd be down £10 a week just on treats
  20. Muntjac are the bane of my life and I have to keep my hounds on leads more than if like. My Collie lurcher can air scent them and has developed a rush in tactic that puts them out of cover every time. It's remarkable as he is nesh with cover, wont ever risk cutting himself and in reality they would be safe if they stayed put. Three serious problems beyond legality, first this is typically on the edge of housing, second they make a lot of noise when overhauled and third the stags are a serious threat to dogs.
  21. Planning to go Friday and introduce the whippet pup to shooting, showing and racing. What could possibly go wrong?
  22. I really like hobs, castrated they are no problem at all and almost always great to handle. Even entire it's only a couple of months of hulk type behaviour. Could be my approach or ground, but I use Jill's as well because I find hobs typically get the hang of using their power by the second season and inevitably will kill or corner rabbits every outing. I enter a Jill a couple of minutes before a hob to get things moving, not unusual that the hob will find one that hasn't quickly bolted, hopefully without cornering it ?
  23. I've always hormone jabbed or used a vasectomised hob. Even then it's not no risk and while they might survive I've had two Jills die of anemia after a second season which I've let go on for too long before doing something about. I don't take chances any more and suggest you don't leave them. For the two spayed ferrets I've owned from ferret rescue, both were long-lived. That said, ask the vet on cost for the op as it's likely expensive and it maybe more cost effective to jab every year.
  24. another vote for in season behaviour. I find it's common for a normally content Jill to be enthusiastic about getting out and away at this time of year. For example I let mine run in a small greenhouse for an hour or so each day, not a problem all this winter, they play the whole time. They,ve pretty much stopped playing and Last week I saw a Jill with her head stuck in a tiny gap in the top window vent trying to get out. Down to 10 mins now ?
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