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ianrob

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Everything posted by ianrob

  1. ianrob
    Well said Ditch, Glenn Waters is the guru.
  2. ianrob
    If any of my info is contradicted by Glenns video, then I bow to his expert knowledge. I can however say with confidence, My method catches hares. ian.
  3. ianrob
    Ferreter with nets... got your pm but only just been on here and i will reply to your querry this evening as im very busy I cant and wont put up a price list on here as i dont want to be seen as just using this forum for selling my nets but i will if people wish to contact me via PM give them a price for whatever it is there after. I always try and offer each and everyone of this sites members a good price on my nets and i will always drop the price depending on what they order. I would like to think i not only offer nets but also a good amount of knowledge from my 25yrs+ experiance and
  4. ianrob
    Hi mate, you're talking way back. original gate nets were square mesh, usually 3 1/4" knot to knot. Perhaps a couple of feet wider than the gate and five or six feet high. The net was laid on the ground on the field side for a couple of feet and held on the gate with a couple of stones. This was in the days of small farm gates made out of timber, so the stones idea was fine. These nets were just a rectangle of net nothing fancy. Most gates today are tubular galvanised steel not good for balancing stones, so far better nowadays to make a short longnet, you can go to 3 1/4" knot to knot or 6 1/2
  5. ianrob
    ian, you do get oxidisation when the brass is wound around the tealer shaft below the eyelet , what i do is spray the tealers with a can of grey primer from the pound shop, then with a can of vauxhall green auto paint, once this has dried i then attach the snare loops ,this eliminates the oxidisation problem, thats why i used the copper breakaway,s instead of galvanized wire for the rabbit breakaway system. Thanks mate sounds an excellent idea, as it makes the snares even less noticeable, and corrosion proof too. I was taught the very basics of snaring rabbits by the son of a son of a profe
  6. ianrob
    Strewth Woodga, you must have £300 worth there. Did you leave anything?
  7. ianrob
    Lots of good replies, I'd just like to mention that hay is warmer than straw, and if too warm, they can get pneumonia type chest problems . I use straw for bedding and they pull out what they don't want. Edd Cook beds his on just shavings, and claims that ferrets have more problems keeping cool than keeping warm, I agree, I had labrador dogs in kennels outside with no bedding and they were fine. The winter coat on a ferret will keep it warm as long as it's out of draughts. NB don't keep just one, they need company, and someone to cuddle up to on chilly nights. I'd ask Kay or Stubby if you hav
  8. ianrob
    Hi mate I had a sucessful trap a few years ago. All it was, was 4 foot high 1/2"mesh chicken wire. roll it into a circle about a foot or so diameter. Make a funnel and fit it to one end and attach a bag of whatever, worms, guts, a rabbit, hedgehog roadkill, to a piece of wire netting and attach it to the other end. I flattened mine so it was oval, but that was just an idea and probably not necessary. A couple of cobbles in it to keep it tight on the bottom, and bob's your uncle. Covering the whole thing with a sack and just leaving the entrance end free might stop the eels trying to get at the
  9. ianrob
    Looks like I've fallen into a pit too mate, the stick I'm getting, as I said to everyone, I just fancied trying one of these on some of the more difficult moles. Perhaps I'm the only one but i seem to get odd moles that are hard to catch. I thought one of these would be another tool to try. I should be talking in the past tense too as I don't catch moles to any great extent nowadays, just as a favour now and again.
  10. ianrob
    Hi tawney, I didn't plan on thowing my Duffus traps out mate, just fancied a shot with one of these to try as something different on the odd difficult mole.
  11. ianrob
    I hadn't envisaged using them by the dozen, more as something to experiment with when a mole was proving difficult. Also it is often possible to know from which end a mole would approach, thus making it possible to use only one trap. A six inch or less hole would do. There is so little of the trap to alert the mole, it might make a mistake. I've had a mole filling Duffus traps for a fortnight before I caught it on a wet morning, in fact caught three within an hour. I would only like to have another tool to try.
  12. ianrob
    I obviously take your point, and thanks. It just occured to me that in my mole catching days, often in deep runs I'd get traps filled with soil time and time again. This trap with so little obstruction in the run, I thought might be worth a try, especially if it was a run in which you knew the direction to expect the mole from. Then a six inch square hole would do.
  13. ianrob
    I found this video and though the hype is not good, I'd like to try the trap, can you get them over here. http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=_IrxSzjqUPw&NR=1
  14. ianrob
    Thanks for the input mate, I thought it might be a zinc transfer due to electrical differential. Seriously thats why cars have plastic trim nowadays. As you say cu/zn brass shouldn't be a problem, but just thought I'd ask. Cheers for the reply
  15. ianrob
    Cheers Duckwing, I'll buy a roll of wire sometime, just happened to see these coathangers getting thrown out, and thought them worth a try. The contact point looks corroded but in all probability, it's just a transfer of zinc from the galv. High tensile? is it not bad to work with?
  16. ianrob
    I'm a convert to the GS waters type rabbit snare but have noticed thart the snare goes discoloured where it is in cotact with the zinc, does it weaken the brass. Perhaps it doesn't happen with fence wire, but I'm useing galv coathangers, as I can get then free. Any ideas.
  17. ianrob
    It's up to you son. It depends on what you can put up with. I had a jill once that was a biter when excited. I just used to tail her into the box to quieten down then she was ok. Now I wouldn't bother, I breed my own and have had no psychos. The best option might be Ditches, option of the .22, if you can live with it. I probably could. Good luck.
  18. ianrob
    What do you need to "control" them for? Are they doing damage?.
  19. ianrob
    Very nice set up Ditch good luck.
  20. ianrob
    Unfortunately, no it's illegal in England. In Scotland, if they are damaging agricultural crops, or are posing a health risk, you can get a licence to shoot them. As i understand it.....Starlings may be taken by shooting, cage trap or net........under the general licence to prevent agricultural damage...........Unless anyone knows different. Rolfe. Hi Rolfe 2005 it all changed see the link http://www.rspb.org.uk/wildlife/birdguide/...rling/legal.asp
  21. ianrob
    Unfortunately, no it's illegal in England. In Scotland, if they are damaging agricultural crops, or are posing a health risk, you can get a licence to shoot them.
  22. ianrob
    Unfortunately, no it's illegal in England. In Scotland, if they are damaging agricultural crops, or are posing a health risk, you can get a licence to shoot them.
  23. ianrob
    Absolutely beautiful little ferret, but then by the way you're holding it, I can tell that you already know that. Magic.
  24. ianrob
    An excellent point Moll, there are a lot of regional differences. I live in Southwest Scotland, and quite a few terms are different, for example the running lines of a long net are called the top and bottom bands. Tealers on snares are called set pins, and as you say quite a few people refer to ferrets as bitch and dog, and often young ferrets are called just young ones, or younguns. I try to use the correct term on here but I don't think it really matters.
  25. ianrob
    Well done mate, a good day out.
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