toblue

Yes that is the idea Bob. It can be taken off after a week or so. If you can't be there during whelping it can be a life saver. Needs to be set around 4 - 5 inches high. Doesn't cost much just a bit of waste pipe and the brackets, if you can't get the fittings that are far enough away from the bed wall use a timber spacer. like the thicker slate lath.

Years ago at Harrington Lurcher Show a guy had a Standard Poodle x Greyhound. I don't think it was ever worked but looked the part for day time use. Aggressive bloody thing was trying to attack anything in sight. Looked like a giant Bedlington Saluki type of cross.

Looking at the photo There is a waste pipe attached around the box which is a great idea when you have a large litter. Socks was obviously well prepared. Nice litter!!

Nice video. All of the Hares and Roe look in great condition. The hares are massive and heavy compared to our fell hares.... Now I could finish this sentence with a sarky comment but won't LOL.

Just go for a lurcher to lurcher cross. In most cases 2 good lurchers breed good lurcher pups if some common sense is used when choosing the sire and dam. If the dam is lacking a top gear but is a great mooching dog x her with a fast lurcher. I have tried going back to the roots of breeding lurchers and to be truthfull it worked ok but was not ground breaking. Don't worry about what blood is in the breeding just breed from (or chose a pup from) 2 good dogs who you think when crossed would give the best of their attributes to their pups. Hit lucky and you will have a star.

Agree with all of the above posts. Interfere as little as possible they will come out naturally 9 times out of 10, keep things calm and quiet, Its the beach ball that may take some time, there's always one monster in there. My advice to anyone breeding pups is take her temperature regular when she is due. It will drop rapidly below 100 when she is due to whelp, If nothing is happening within 12 hours after the temp drop and her temperature goes up above normal give the vet a call. Same goes if she is constantly pushing hard (at any point) for a long time (more than 1.5 - 2 hours max) an

Around 8-9 I would say. Make sure you have a deck chair and a good book on hand, as I would sit with her during the birth as if she has a good lot it will take hours and just keeping the first borns out of the way when the next is born will be a great comfort for her. I once had 2 greyhounds pup within 24 hours and ended up with 20 pups at the end of it. That's AI for you.

Two sets of two sisters, god it seems like 5 minutes ago. They are all grown up now.

Great pic Lofti.

Not sure if it would work in this situation but I have used an electric shock collar when I had problems with a dog chasing livestock and another chasing chickens. She was cured within a week. My collar has a 300m range. Fantastic piece of kit gives a warning the dog can hear a few seconds before the shock so after a few shocks you would only need to use the sound effect to correct them.

You have done the right thing Obi. If you do get another pup avoid running them up very steep banks or enticing them to jump up on their hind legs for a rag or lure. This injury generally occurs when the dog is fairly young but is more or less fully grown. Best Of Luck.

Must admit it is not for the faint hearted. You need someone to hold the muzzled dog, go in hard and firm without hesitation. Don't fanny about get it done quickly. Should take about 30 seconds to complete the job. It won't be the most pleasant 30 seconds for your dog but it will save you a vet bill. If you know a decent greyhound trainer they will more than likely show you how to do it. I must have done 20 -30 and you can almost see the relief on the dogs face once it is rid of the wart (and rid of the person squashing it out). They often reoccur on different toes over a perio

If it is a true deep seated corn then it is a bigger problem. If it is a wart (white papilloma) it can be squeezed out. It is painful for the dog and you will need a muzzle. It is a bit like squeezing a big zit. Squeeze until it bleeds then squeeze some more to get the core out. Then apply some iodine spray twice a day for a week. If it comes back it means you did not get the core out. Try and get it right the first time as your poor hound will know what is coming second time around. Swill your pen out with disinfectant or bleach as it is a virus and could spread to other dogs. War

How are you applying this drops on the back of the neck?? Sorry for being dumb!! Orally with a syringe (minus the needle of course) down the back of the throat. Dogs (and sheep) hate the taste of this so squirt it well down and hold their mouths closed with head back until you are sure they have swallowed it. Make sure you get the right stuff, sheep drench 0.08% with no additives like copper and such like. Most online farm stores sell it such as Hyperdrug http://www.hyperdrug.co.uk/Oramec-Drench/productinfo/ORA9007907/ . Great for round worms and mange. I believe it is also used

By the way £25 would buy an awful lot of Panacur especially if you buy the horse stuff.